Philadelphia Magazine's Best of Philly 2007 - Food & Drink

It’s that time of year again, folks. The time when Philadelphia Magazine dishes on the things it loves the most about Philly. "Essential" and "authoritative," Phily Mag’s “Best Of ” issue is a Philadelphia institution. Editor Larry Platt says it best: "We don’t just try to reflect your world and tell you what you like; instead, we try to influence your world, by spending all year combing the region in order to tell you what you should like.” This year, Philly Mag returns to some of the more basic categories and gives you something extra—a handy little “black book” that you can tear out and take with you anywhere you go, making the 2007 Best Of issue a must read.

Without further ado, here are a few highlights from Philadelphia Magazine’s Best of Philly 2007, Food & Drink:



Best New Restaurant, City: Osteria. Given the number of high caliber restaurants that opened this year, this choice could not have been easy for the folks at Philadelphia Magazine. Indeed, April White confesses there was “heated debate” over this category. But I could not agree more with this choice—Osteria captures the authenticity of the Italian dining experience by delivering high quality Italian food in a casual yet polished atmosphere. From the “fine handmade” pastas to the “ethereal” Polenta Budino, there is much to love about Osteria. Check out my Osteria review here.



Best Chef: Jonathan McDonald. Philly Mag likes Snackbar's Johnny Mac for the same reason I do: He’s the MacGyver of the kitchen when it comes to successfully combining seemingly incompatible ingredients. The guy is fearless. Give McDonald any three random ingredients and you can guarantee he’ll rescue your palate from boredom. You can find my Snackbar review here.



Best Entrée: The Roast Chicken at James. I know what you’re thinking. Chicken? Believe me, I, too, would be scratching my head had I not eaten Chef Burke’s Cornish game hen myself and written about it here. Burke’s secret is to select high quality meats and to cook them slow and low to concentrate the flavors.

Best Indian: Tiffin Store. I’ve taken great pleasure in introducing my friends to Tiffin Store. The downside to having done that, of course, is that it now takes me longer to get my delivery because the place is busier than ever. Quality Indian food at reasonable prices, you say? You better believe it.


Best Food Trend: The Sequel. This year, Philly took a page from Hollywood’s playbook and adapted it to the restaurant scene. Daniel Stern’s “Empire Strikes Back” with Rae. Marc Vetri, Philly’s “Godfather” of Italian cuisine, “pulls [us] back in” with Osteria. And thanks to Tinto, Jose Garces now has “Two Towers” on the Philly tapas scene. Next year’s Best Food Trend? I’m thinking it could be The Trilogy. After a diversion to Chicago to open Mercat later this year (which will feature Barcelonan-style tapas and charcuterie), Garces will come back to Philly to open Chilango, a Mexico City-inspired taqueria that (I kid you not) will pay tribute to Mexican professional wrestlers. Though it sounds more like “Nacho Libre,” if the success of Amada and Tinto are any indication, Chilango will herald the “Return of the King.” Either way, I’m getting my ticket in advance.

Want to know who won the Best Cheesesteak, City category? How about Best New BYOB? Best Pizza? Pick up your own copy of the Best of Philly 2007 edition of Philadelphia Magazine. It hits newsstands on Monday.

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Behind the Scenes of Philadelphia Magazine’s Best of Philly 2006

Every year since 1974 Philadelphia Magazine has been publishing its Best of Philly issue, which includes a section on Food & Drink.

Ever want to know how they pick the winners?

Last night, thanks to Anthony Green, National Constitution Center Vice President for Programs and National Outreach and former editor of Philadelphia Magazine, we got a chance to peek behind the curtain.

As part of the National Constitution Center’s “Philadelphia Talks” series, Green invited Philadelphia Magazine Editor Larry Platt, Executive Editor Tom McGrath, Food Editor April White and Lifestyle Editor Jessica Blatt to talk about the selection process.



According to Platt, the process is “still very subjective, by choice.” “There is no scientific method,” he says, “and we don’t want there to be.” But that’s not to say that there’s no method to the madness. White explained that selecting the winners for the Food & Wine section is a year-long process that includes trying restaurants multiple times and her debating with her colleagues. The voting is democratic, but when it comes to making the final selections for the Food & Drink section, Platt said that White’s expert opinion is what counts the most.

Most lobbying efforts fall flat. The panel talked about a pretzel purveyor who spelled out the words “Philadelphia Magazine” in pretzels and sent them to the office. Turns out his delivery was two weeks late; they had already made their picks for the Best of Philly issue. White said they “like to hear about things organically.” And forget about reader’s polls. McGrath noted that when readers pick what’s “best,” you end up with Olive Garden as the best restaurant.

Philadelphia Magazine “is in the business of unearthing Philadelphia gems,” said Platt. The staff dedicates themselves to finding the next cool thing and the fruit of their labor is “a roadmap for navigating the city.” “It’s a celebration of Philadelphia,” Platt said.

The bonus of this event was that you got a free advance copy of the 2006 Best of Philly issue. According to Platt, “Part of the fun of the Best of Philly issue is disagreeing with it.” So, here are a few thoughts:

• Best Wine Bar: Domaine Hudson Wine Bar & Eatery in Wilmington, Delaware. Wait. Delaware?! The Best Philly Wine Bar is actually in the state of Delaware?! How is dining in Delaware a “celebration of Philadelphia”? I’ve got nothing against Delaware (love your beaches and those ominous black license plates). And I do appreciate that Philly extends beyond Center City. But can we at least pick the Best of Philly winners from our own state?

• Best Burger: Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries. This may be the second unopened Center City restaurant in the past two weeks to win an award. Unlike Wine Spectator, though, Philadelphia Magazine does acknowledge that the Center City location of this restaurant has not yet opened (it’s scheduled to open in August), and it does say that there are “Four area locations.” Plus, one of the ideas behind the Best of Philly issue is to be a bit ahead of the curve, and Five Guys does have a tasty burger. So, until the Center City location opens you may have to travel to Clifton Heights, Glenn Mills or Wayne to enjoy this award winner. If geography is still not much of a limitation next year, I'd like to nominate Matchbox in D.C. (mini-burgers) and Tessaro's in Pittsburgh for the Best Philly Burger.

• Best Local Wine: French Creek Ridge “Blanc de Blancs.” But which vintage? That’s kind of an important detail. According to the French Creek Ridge website, they currently sell two Blanc de Blancs wines: a 1999 Blanc de Blancs ($30) and a 2001 Reserve Blanc de Blancs ($35). Not sure which one won the award. Philadelphia Magazine says its pick is available from the winery, so pay French Creek Ridge a visit (or order online) and try both the '99 and the '01.

Some other highlights of the Food & Drink section of the 2006 Best of Philly issue:

• Best New Restaurant: Amada. And now your chances of getting a dinner reservation here anytime soon (especially during Restaurant Week) will vanish in 3...2...1....

• Best Ice Cream: Franklin Fountain. As a friend of mine at work says, this place has that “old timey” feel. The Fountain spins out a formidable chocolate shake that tastes like pure, melted chocolate ice cream. Yet, somehow the treats don’t seem as decadent when a chap who looks like he just stepped out of a time machine serves them to you.

• Eating Good in the ‘Hood. This column gives you a bird’s-eye-view of emerging restaurant communities in various counties. Northern Liberties gets the nod in Philadelphia County.

Wanna know more? Like who won for Best Cheesesteak, Best Takeout Pizza and Best Wooder Ice? Hang in there; the Best of Philly issue should hit newsstands within a week.

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Amada (for lunch)

Amada is an authentic Spanish tapas bar in Old City. As I mentioned a few months back, Wine Spectator mentioned Amada in an article about Philadelphia restaurants in its April 2006 issue. Since then I’ve been looking forward to trying Amada, but it’s been difficult to get reservations the few times I tried.

However, on July 4th, with the exception of the predictable gaggle of tourists in the traditional spots, Center City was virtually empty. Recognizing the opportunity, my wife and I shot over to Amada for lunch.



The lunch menu features a smaller selection of tapas as well as salads and sandwiches. We started off, of course, with a pitcher of the Sangria Tinto ($28)—spiced red wine with oranges, apples and cinnamon. We thought the cinnamon would make the sangria too heavy, but that wasn’t the case. The sangria was light, crisp and refreshing, and the cinnamon added a depth that sets Amada’s version apart from the rest. Normally, I prefer my sangria to be a little more potent than Amada’s, but on this hot July day their softer version really hit the spot.



The first dish we tried was the aged Manchego with Truffled Lavender Honey ($7). Amada imports the lavender honey from Spain and then they infuse it with truffle oil. They sell the lavender honey sans truffle oil in jars for you to take home; I’m told the truffled version may be available soon. The lavender adds a light, perfumy background touch without being overpowering. The truffle oil does a nice job of negotiating the connection between the sweet, flowery honey and the savory cheese, making this dish surprising fulfilling for a cheese plate.



I also ordered the Chorizo Pamplona ($7). The waitress tried to steer me toward the grilled version of this dish, which she recommended, but I was in the mood for a cold meat dish to go alongside the cheese plate and the thinly sliced chorizo was a solid starter. This dish came with mustard, cornichons and crisp, tangy caper berries.



Next, we tried the Piquillos Rellenos—crab-stuffed peppers topped with almonds ($12). This dish was our favorite. The peppers were roasted and de-skinned, and the amazingly mouth-watering crab stuffing was warm, rich and creamy. The dish, however, could benefit from a defining spice to pull the peppers and the crab filling together.



Finally, I ordered the Lamb Chops ($14). The flavor of this dish lies in its simplicity—the medium rare chops were rubbed only with salt and pepper, allowing the natural juices to seduce your taste buds. But the chops were tougher than I expected them to be and, unfortunately, I didn’t have the right silverware to avoid having to gnaw on the bone. Not that I minded; it was the Fourth of July, after all, and I’m sure that’s what our Founding Fathers would have done.

On Wednesday and Friday evenings at 9:00 p.m. Amada hosts Flamenco dancing on a stage in the main dining area. When they’re not dancing, the curtains around the stage can be drawn to turn it into a private dining room for you and your friends. If you want to feel like an insider, ask for “Table 31” when making reservations for the stage table.

Amada
217-219 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia PA 19106
(215) 625-2450

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Philadelphia Restaurants Featured in Wine Spectator

This month’s issue of Wine Spectator features an article by John Mariani entitled “Old Meets New in Philadelphia.” According to the article, Philadelphia’s diverse neighborhoods are giving rise to some very personalized restaurants. Here are a few highlights:

• Mariani focuses on four of Philadelphia’s finest: Barclay Prime, Bliss, Gayle and Striped Bass. And yes, he mentions BP’s infamous $100 American Wagyu cheese steak, which comes with (as he says) a “slab” of foie gras and a half-bottle of Veuve Clicot.

• Mariani also gives a shout out to Farmicia, Estia, El Vez and Amada (an authentic tapas bar I’m looking forward to trying).

• The article laments the cost of wine in some of the profiled restaurants. Mariani lays most of the blame for this on Pennsylvania’s restrictive state-controlled wine distribution system. I am glad Mariani gave the cost issue some attention. However, I think it needs to be put into context, which will do in a later post.

• Mariani mentions having a glass of 2002 Mark West Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($13) at Striped Bass, though it’s not clear whether he liked it. I recently had this wine (for less than $13 a glass, I believe) at two other Stephen Starr restaurants—Washington Square and The Continental at 2nd and Market—and I enjoyed it. I haven’t had enough of this wine to be able to write anything thoughtful about it; the PLCB will not be getting any more in (though it’s not clear that they ever really had any available for consumers) and the winery told me it’s all gone. I recommend hitting one of these Stephen Starr restaurants and trying a glass while they still have some left. My only advice is to ask them to put it in the proper glass. The Continental, unfortunately, served this wine in a chardonnay glass and it never had a chance to open up.

In addition, Wine Spectator’s feature article, “The New Italian Cuisine,” profiles, among others, Philadelphia’s chef Marc Vetri of Vetri Ristorante for his innovative approach to Italian food. Also, Chef Vetri shares his recipe for Asparagus Crespelle with Balsamella Sauce.

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