Pig-turesque

It’s tempting to make certain assumptions about a restaurant named Cochon (French for pig): (1) the menu will contain pork; and (2) the food will compel you to eat to the point of gluttony. Both of these assumptions, it turns out, are true of the new Queen Village French bistro helmed by chef Gene Giuffi and his wife Amy. But when this duo was mulling over names for their BYOB, they settled on Cochon for an entirely different reason.

Cochon is the latest crusader in the city’s French restaurant revolution—a liberating development in light of Philadelphia’s time-worn allegiance to the Italian BYOB. The bistro occupies the space that formerly housed Café Sud. During renovations, Gene and Amy discovered charming fixtures almost too good to be true—a well-heeled mosaic tile floor and original pressed tin wall panels that have been sanded and painted powder blue. The warm, expanded dining room now comfortably seats 44 at humble wooden tables. The gleaming new open kitchen is nestled into the corner. A large chalkboard decorates the wall to display daily specials.

Though young, Cochon already has a clear identity, all thanks to the pig. To chef Giuffi (formerly of Davio’s, Nan, La Boheme and ¡Pasión!), the pig represents the essence of rustic, farmhouse food. And he named his bistro after the uncultured sow to remove the pretense often associated with French fare. It’s a proud, unapologetic reminder—this is peasant food. But don’t let the rural theme fool you. Cochon’s food may be simple, but it’s not without sophistication.



Clean and tender escargot and Shitake mushrooms rest in a red wine sauce. Gently kissed with garlic Pernod butter, the deep, herbaceous sauce is ambrosial, making this one of the most memorable and satisfying appetizers on the menu.



Another must have is the crispy chicken livers appetizer—a Davio’s dish Giuffi updated. Tossed with balsamic, candied walnuts and raisins, the livers are soft, rich and pleasantly sweet.



The delicate tomato-leek saffron broth in which the mussels bathe could use a touch of heat. Still, you won’t be able to resist dredging the bowl with a spent shell to rescue the last drop of broth.



Entrées, too, are smart without losing their pastoral appeal. Beautifully prepared duck breast comes with a white bean ragout that includes crisped-up bacon and confit, a creative play on refried beans. Giuffi skillfully prepares a Prime cut of Belevedere strip steak for the steak frites, and the fries conceal a faint hint of heat that warms the back of your throat.



Slow-cooked country staples receive the tender care they deserve. The pork shoulder marinates for almost 2 days and roasts for 8-10 hours. It’s a comforting prelude to winter, though the dish could use more of the roasted Brussels sprouts that are nesting in the hearty and flavorful lentils du Puy.



But the braised, free-range lamb shank steals the show. The sweet, wild meat spills off the mammoth bone with the slightest brush from a fork. And the syrupy port reduction that hosts earthy rutabaga and fingerlings balances the lamb’s richness.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Bordeaux are ideal for Giuffi’s cuisine, though the selection of these wines at the nearby 5th street PLCB store is thin and/or expensive. In a pinch, the 2003 Chateau Greysac will do (PLCB No. 4453, $18.95), as will the 2003 Chateau Les Fief de Lagrange (PLCB No. 7991, $18.99). But those searching for a less expensive alternative may enjoy the 2005 Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza (PLCB No. 29021, $11.99), a Syrah/Bonarda blend (think: Merlot with a personality).



Cochon’s key strength, ironically, highlights a small weakness. Giuffi’s signature sauces are intensely addictive and beg to be soaked up with a deep, never-ending basket of sliced baguette. But the single, elegant roll you receive instead doesn’t last long (especially with the delicious butter dressed with sea salt) and even seems a little too fussy for Cochon’s humble personality.

But Cochon’s only real blemish—one that’s common in Center City eateries—is the relatively high noise level. The angular dining space and tin panels are likely more to blame than the open kitchen.



Most desserts are currently being sourced from outside vendors. But the creme brulée, made in-house, is a flawless dream that should not be missed. Its hard, caramelized shell harbors a cool, satisfying custard.

With its warm environs and rustic country cuisine, Cochon’s a bistro the everyday Frenchman would call home.

Cochon
801 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-923-7675
Prices: $8-$23; Cash Only

For more pics, check out my Cochon set on Flickr.

Read More....

Pocket Sommelier - Mercato

In today’s City Paper you’ll find the latest edition of Pocket Sommelier. I pair wine with two dishes at Mercato: the Ricotta Gnocchi in a Short Rib Ragu; and the intense, flavorful and organic Braised Jamison Farm Lamb Shank that was recently added to the menu.

Most people bring one bottle of wine to a BYOB. But more often than not, that one wine will not match every course. It may seem silly to bring two or even three bottles of wine to a restaurant, but the wrong wine could ruin a dish. For example, two of the Chiantis we brought went well with the gnocchi, but they were a complete mismatch for the lamb.

However, the Cab I alluded to at the end of my post about the Philly Wine Festival—the Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wetzel Family Estate 2004—paired amazingly well with the lamb. What’s exciting about this wine is that it has the same type of rich, spicy profile found in some of the more celebrated California Cabs, but it’s one third the price.



Carnivores with a conscience will not want to miss the chance to savor Mercato's new lamb dish. The meat was so tender it spilled off the bone before my fork even touched it. And Jamison Farm, located in Latrobe, PA, is known far and wide for raising its lambs on a diet that is 100% natural and free of hormones, antibiotics, herbicides and insecticides. I tasted a slight hint of anise in this dish, a flavor I could not attribute to any of the ingredients. Not knowing what it was drove me mad. When I later asked Chef de Cuisine Mackenzie Hilton what it could be, she posited that it might have something to do with what the lamb had eaten. Now, that’s organic.

For more pics, check out my Mercato set on Flickr.

Read More....

Bathrooms, Basque and Bistros

If I told you that my posting has been sparse lately because I’ve been hanging out in women’s restrooms across Center City, would that sound weird? Well, weird or not, it’s partially true.

I wrote a Top 5 for the City Paper, which appears in this week’s issue—Top 5 Brilliant Bathrooms. There will be disagreement over the selections, no doubt. But each entry is principled. Plus, I put a lot of work into the project, and I somehow managed to do so without getting arrested.

I also worked with City Paper to come up with a semi-regular feature called Pocket Sommelier. The one thing you give up at a BYOB is the wine service. So we thought it would be cool to take some of the guesswork out of your BYOB experience by pairing a wine with a dish or two from an area BYOB. The first installment of Pocket Sommelier features two dishes from Bisto 7 and the Franciscan Chardonnay Napa Valley 2005 (PLCB No. 16506, $11.99), which is a Chairman’s Selection. For example, this Chardonnay works well with that gnocchi dish because the Royal Trumpet mushrooms are rich and delicate. Earthier mushrooms, though, may not work as well.

I also signed on to do the Wine Chow column over at ClassicWines.com. In this week’s column I talk about how the small plates phenomenon has changed how we drink wine. To illustrate this point, I discuss Tinto’s Basque cuisine and its regionally-focused wine list.

Read More....

The Washington Post Covers the Philadelphia BYOB Scene

Jason Wilson wrote a vivid and informative article about the Philadelphia BYOB scene, which appears in today’s Washington Post. (See “Philadelphia’s BYO Revolution”) (registration required).

I'm quoted in this article as well. Jason even published my intuitive little BYOB tip in the sidebar: check the restaurant’s menu before you pick your wine and don’t be afraid to bring a variety of bottles.

Read More....

Restaurant Week Wrap-Up: A Smack-down, Of Sorts

Restaurant Week is not a normal Center City dining experience. Twice a year it turns the local restaurant scene into a carnival-like atmosphere. As I’ve noted before, not all restaurants do the same act during the two Restaurant Weeks that they do the other 50 weeks of the year. Yet, much like the provocative posters for the Bearded Lady or the Dog-Faced Boy, the lure of a three-course meal at a posh restaurant for a mere $30 is hard to resist. And, indeed, the seats fill up quickly as diners scramble early for reservations. But as with all carnivals, soon after you emerge from the tent you often find yourself deliberating whether the show lived up to the hype. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn’t.



Inspired by the likes of Barnum and his modern-day equivalents, I decided to take a different approach to Restaurant Week this time around. Instead of evaluating the restaurants in a vacuum, I though it would be fun to compare my experiences at two restaurants to see which one performed better under these carnival conditions—a sort of Restaurant Week smack-down, if you will.



First up was Bistro Romano. One of the draws of this romantic, Italian eatery in Society Hill certainly has to be its dedication to filling your belly. For example, instead of serving the standard three courses during Restaurant Week, Bistro Romano served four—the first being three delicious and remarkably fresh Bruschetta. The hearty Minestrone, too, was large enough to be an entrée.



Bistro Romano also emphasizes home-cooked style of preparation. Many restaurants in Center City masterfully execute a version of the home-style theme (e.g., Radicchio). However, Bistro Romano’s translation was not quite up to snuff. The Minestrone was uninteresting. The Veal Saltimbocca spent too much time in the broiler; the prosciutto appeared to have bonded with the veal on a molecular level, giving the dish a tough, jerky-like texture.



Similarly, the white wine sauce accompanying the Tilapia with Shrimp tasted like it was thickened with flour or cornstarch, making it heavy and reminiscent of gravy (a simple reduction or beur blanc would have been welcomed). All of this may be nostalgic of how mom used to make it; however, a restaurant should deliver a little more refinement, even if it is taking a home-cooked approach.



For dessert, we picked the Chocolate Torte with Raspberry Sauce and the White Chocolate Mousse. The torte was uncharacteristically sweet and the chocolate was less intense than the torte’s color and density would suggest. The mousse, though, was nicely balanced—not too rich or overly sweet.



The second restaurant was Mandoline, a contemporary cash-only BYO in Old City. It was refreshing to see that Mandoline’s Restaurant Week Menu appeared to be identical to their Winter Menu, which includes tempting starters such as Lobster Truffle Macaroni and Cheese and the Goat Cheese Pistachio Cake.



I opted to start with the Venison Ragout with Pappardelle Pasta and Grana Padano. The pappardelle was well-prepared and all of the all of its flavors were complementary. However, the ground venison was more subdued than expected. Although this makes the racy-sounding dish more accessible, it may be a little disappointing to those who are looking for the wild and gamey flavors often associated with venison. It may be a little too tame, in fact, to justify using something as exotic as venison.



Mandoline’s Five-Spiced Smoked Duck Breast, Citrus Sweet Potato Mash and Sweet Soy packs an array of well-chosen flavors. The smoke and glaze used to prepare the medium-rare duck impart sweet notes of apples and molasses, and the citrus enlivens the wonderfully sweet and earthy mash. Some pieces of the duck, though, were tougher than they should have been and were difficult to carve with the standard butter knife they provided.



Mandoline does not prepare desserts of their own, but they do offer gelati from Capogiro. The Chocolate Hazelnut Gelato is a guaranteed winning flavor combination (one of my personal favorites), and the hard-to-resist Olive Oil Gelato delivers the delicate essence of this cooking staple while maintaining a rich, creamy and satisfying texture.

So, who won the smack-down? This dubious honor goes to Mandoline. Both restaurants had a few issues—Bistro Romano presented overcooked veal and seemingly starch-laden sauces; Mandoline’s duck was a little tough and its ragout, while well-prepared, was somewhat different than expected. But at the end of the day, the issues with Bistro Romano’s performance were more systemic and appeared to stem from their literal interpretation and execution of the home-cooked concept throughout. Plus, as I’ve emphasized before, flavor counts, and the flavors of Mandoline’s dishes were more impressive than Bistro Romano’s.

Thanks to those who posted their recent Restaurant Week experiences here in the comments section of my prior post. Do check them out. Also, thanks to the Center City District / Central Philadelphia Development Corp. for organizing Restaurant Week. The next installment will take place September 23-28, 2007.

Read More....

Gophila.com’s Interactive BYOB Restaurant Map

If you love Philly’s BYOBs, you’ll love this.

The folks at the Philly Tourism Office put together this really cool interactive BYOB restaurant map. Not only does it identify the locations of about 130 BYOB restaurants in the area, it also identifies all of the nearby PLCB stores. You can sort by neighborhood or cuisine. Click on any of the restaurant or PLCB locations and you’ll see a bubble that lists an address, a phone number and a web site (if any). And with the restaurants, you’ll also get a short description. Soon they’ll be adding “send to cell phone” and “get directions” features.

Check it out: http://www.gophila.com/byobmap

Read More....

Copper Bistro

Copper—man’s first metal. It holds a sacred place in our history as the first metal to be unearthed and shaped by human hands. Man’s first use of copper, interestingly, was decorative and ornamental. Copper became a vehicle for artistic expression. Its color and malleability inspired craftsmanship. Since that time, however, copper has become more known for its utilitarian contributions to society. Even today, copper continues to show its versatility. We rely on copper to make calls on our cell phones and to access blogs from our computers. For inspiration, though, we typically look elsewhere.

That is, until now.

Copper is a New American bistro and BYOB in Northern Liberties. The setting is intimate—the front room has roughly thirty white tablecloth, candle lit seats. There is also a back room, which can accommodate a small group or two. The foodsmiths are owner / executive chef Daniel Connelly and chef de cuisine Todd Braley. The kitchen is open and stationed in the front room, inherently making the chefs part of the dining experience. Yet, you barely notice them. Apparently, aside from the help of only one prep person, Connelly and Braley effortlessly manage the entire restaurant all by themselves. And they do it with a quiet, measured synergy. It’s truly impressive.



Our first appetizer was the soup du jour, Hubbard Squash Soup with Mascarpone Cheese and Nutmeg ($6.00). The soup was incredibly rich and buttery. Addictive and satisfying at a core level; however, a bit of sweetness would have helped to balance out the richness.



I also ordered the Turnip and Beet Carpaccio with Gorgonzola and Caramelized Walnuts ($7.50). The presentation of this dish was elegant. The rich, whipped Gorgonzola at the center of this dish provided a nice contrast to the cool, comforting root vegetables. The sugar on the walnuts, which were addictive, was a bit too candy-ish for this dish. A sugar with the depth of honey or molasses, for example, probably would be more complementary to the vegetables and Gorgonzola.



We brought a bottle of Rosenblum Zinfandel, San Francisco Bay Carla’s Vineyard 2004 ($26.99, PLCB No. 13724, Specialty). This wine was deep and bold—black cherry, black currant, raisiny plum and grass. With an alcohol content of 16%, this Zinfandel was a formidable (and enjoyable) dinner companion.



For her entrée, my wife ordered the Seared Day-Boat Scallops, Potato Rosti, Wild Mushroom Ragout and Proscuitto Jus ($22.50). The scallops were perfectly prepared. The mushroom ragout was flavorful and earthy, yet delicate, and paired well with the scallops.



I ordered the Seared Duck Breast with Fregola Sarda and Cherry Gastrique ($21.00). The quality of the duck was amazing—no gamyness whatsoever. Probably the best duck I’ve had in recent memory. This, too, was perfectly prepared. With a duck of lesser quality, one would expect the skin to have been treated to a few more seconds of searing and the meat to be coated in a deeper cherry gastrique. But, given the high quality of the duck, it was wise not to do so here, a testament to chefs’ discretion.



For dessert, we ordered the Flourless Chocolate Torte ($6.00), which I wrote about here in this week’s Culture Shock section of the City Paper.

Chefs Connelly and Braley demonstrate that Copper is synonymous with artistry and craftsmanship. Inspiration is just a reservation away.

Copper Bistro
614 N. Second Street
(215) 627-9844

Read More....

Pumpkin

All seasons bring change. But for many people, no season brings changes that are more evocative than autumn's. The days are shorter. There’s a crisp bite in the air. Winter looms. It is a time of new beginnings, too—especially for those whose lives have ever revolved around an academic cycle (or watching football). Autumn is synonymous with the harvest. We set aside time to celebrate the fruits of our labor and explore the flavors of the year’s bounty. Autumn has a distinct feeling all its own. And the one symbol that captures that feeling, and uniquely represents the season of autumn, is the pumpkin.

You take on a certain risk naming your 28-seat BYOB after a symbol that is so closely associated with one particular season; some people, after all, aren’t always in the mood for autumn. Chef Ian Moroney does find ways to subtly work autumnal themes into many of his creations; however, he is not a slave to the season.



The Romaine salad ($7.75), our first appetizer, included figs and candied pecans, both of which are sweet, rich and flavorful Fall staples. The salad was topped with vinaigrette made from Cashel Blue Irish Farmhouse Cheese, a semi-soft blue cow’s milk cheese from Tipperary Ireland, giving the salad a slight touch of the comforting richness you seek out in the cooler months.



The second appetizer was the seared scallops, which were served floating on top of a mushroom fricassee and surrounded by a butternut squash emulsion ($9.75). The mushrooms had a deep, smokey flavor that made me nostalgic for an evening in front of a campfire.



The entrée I had was the pork two ways with a pear confit, fingerlings and cider sauce ($22). The larger piece of pork was the broiled loin, which was juicy, sweet and tender. The other was the braised belly, the part normally cut into bacon. This slightly darker meat was wrapped in an intimidating ribbon of fat. But the intimidation spilled away as it instantly liquefied in my mouth, stimulating parts of the brain where the caveman and the addict lurk in all of us.



For dessert, the pot de crème ($7.50)—a dessert I’m pleased to see is becoming ubiquitous in Center City. Pumpkin separates itself from the pack by adding milk chocolate and coffee. The milk chocolate gives it a smooth, silky texture some of the others may lack, and the coffee allows you to pretend you’re a grown-up while you're reliving the decadence of youth.



Pumpkins make their appearance only in the fall and are around only for a short time. But this particular Pumpkin is a reasonably priced treat you can enjoy any time of the year as many times as you like—assuming, of course, that you make reservations.

Pumpkin
1713 South Street
(215) 545-4448

Read More....

Aqua

Over 90% of the population of Thailand practices Buddhisim. One of the guiding principles of Buddhism is the Middle Way or the Middle Path—the practice of non-extremism, moderation and avoiding self-indulgence. However, after seeing the menu at Aqua, even the most devout Buddhist would have a hard time practicing restraint.

Aqua is the new Malaysian and Thai BYO on Chestnut near the corner of 7th. For those who like a little oat soda with their Thai cuisine, the location could not be more convenient. The Las Vegas Lounge, which is right across the street, sells six packs to go. (In the interest of full disclosure, my wife and I are friends of the owner of the LVL.) A friend and I grabbed a six of Dos Equis Amber and we were off to Aqua for what would be my third of many visits since it opened.

Aqua’s menu is huge—over sixty tempting entrées (not including appetizers, soups and salads), all at reasonable prices. The size of the menu, I’ll admit, concerned me at first. It seems as though it would be hard to do that many entrées and do them all well. But owners Jim Tran and Mr. Long (also the Chef) have proven otherwise. All of the dishes I’ve tried at Aqua so far (and there have been many) have been polished, sophisticated and consistent.



My friend and I got two appetizers to start. First, we had the Rice Net Spring Rolls—five fried spring rolls with shrimp, crab meat, glass noodle skin and taro crusting served with plum sauce ($6.75). The netting is crisp and light; a refreshing change from the traditional rice paper. The crabs and shrimp are rich and well balanced. The plum sauce is on the lighter side, but it has a welcoming bite.



Our second appetizer was the Shrimp Puff—lightly fried shrimp cakes wrapped with bacon and served with a mayonnaise-based sauce ($6.95). This appetizer is on the heavier side. The fried bacon flavor is prominent, but it works well with the shrimp. I have heard of this dish being served in other restaurants with a chili sauce. But the mayonnaise-based sauce Aqua uses is a smart choice; it balances out the salt in the bacon and brings out the shrimp in ways a light chili sauce could not.

On another occasion, I had the Tom Yum Gai, a spicy lemon grass soup with chili paste, lime, mushrooms and chicken ($3.95). This soup is comfortingly addictive. The snappy, healthful broth with its robust chilis can give you enough warmth to ride out the roughest of Philadelphia’s Winters.



We decided to taste three entrées. First, we had the Beef Rendang, which is tender beef cooked with a paste of ground onion, lemon grass and chilies in a spicy aromatic curry ($12.95). This, by far, is my favorite dish at Aqua. The beef is tender enough to cut with a dull chopstick and it practically melts in your mouth. But as good as the beef is, it doesn’t hold a candle to the curry. The curry is deep and fulfilling, with a slight hint of sweetness to compliment the savory beef. The heat from the chilis is rich and mature—it sustains at a hearty, consistent level beyond the initial bite. Rice, I should note, is a side order at Aqua. The Beef Rendang goes well with the Coconut Rice ($1.25).



Next, we sampled the Thai Lettuce Wraps—crumbled chicken mixed with Thai basil, green peppers, house sauce and fresh lettuce leaves ($8.95). This is a light, healthy dish that screams freshness. The Thai basil and peppers tasted improbably fresh; it was as though they were picked only moments before we were served.



Finally, we tried the Pad Thai, which consists of stir-fried thin flat noodles with shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts topped with crushed peanuts ($8.95). Aqua’s Pad Thai is a rich, filling staple. Fresh and flavorful, this dish is an excellent balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy.



Aqua’s windows open to the sidewalk, making it a notable place for people-watching from any seat in the house. Like most restaurants, the tables are cozy enough for privacy, yet close enough for friendly conversations with your neighbors should you choose to engage them (or eavesdrop on them). Believe it or not, I actually overheard someone at the next table announce to his friends that he did not like my blog. But a few minutes later a family who saw me taking pictures asked me for my website. So, maybe it is possible to find some sort of Middle Path here, even if you do overindulge—which is all too easy to do at Aqua.

Aqua
705 Chestnut Street
(215) 928-2838

Read More....