Osteria

There’s something special about the food you enjoy in Italy, something different. It’s not that the restaurants are using an array of secret ingredients or employing arcane or complicated cooking techniques. It’s very much the opposite, in fact—generally the dishes have few ingredients and the preparation usually is quite simple. Yet, the meals in Italy consistently stand out among the best. It’s almost as though the ingredients themselves instinctively know what to do, or they’re charmed by the chef into combining with each other in ways that exceed the dish’s potential. As a result, the food is both humble and humbling.

It’s challenging to find an Italian restaurant here that can truly recreate that experience (though there are some that come close). But with the opening of Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin’s Osteria, the landscape has vastly improved.


In Italy, restaurants are identified either as a ristorante, trattoria or osteria. Today, the names don’t carry the hierarchal meanings they once did, but back in the day they acted as a classification system. If the restaurant was called a ristorante, for example, you could expect a formal dining experience—a wine list, white table cloths and, of course, a price tag to match. A trattoria was more casual, but it did serve full, hearty meals. And an osteria was the least formal of the three—it was more of a gathering place that served wine and maybe some basic food.



At Vetri and Benjamin’s Osteria, the large wooden tables and the long dinner bar—perfect for those dining solo or couples hoping to sneak in without a reservation—help to capture the warm, rustic, communal spirit of the traditional osteria. Yet, like many of the osterias and trattorias in modern-day Italy, Osteria is more upscale than its name would suggest. And although the prices of some of the dishes here are closer to what you’d expect to pay at a traditional ristorante, the food is worth it.



Osteria's take on Northern Italian cuisine is authentic enough to make you nostalgic for the Old Country even if you’ve never been there. But at the same time, Osteria makes the dishes its own, all the while somehow managing to keep it all simple. For example, pappardelle with boar meat is a classic Umbrian staple. Osteria, however, takes this dish to the next level by substituting the pappardelle with long, tubular, home-made candele and by using just enough rosemary to highlight the flavor of the boar. As a result, the Candele with Wild Boar Bolognese is a reliable winner that has become one of Osteria's most popular dishes ($16.00—only around four dollars more than you’d pay in Italy for the pasta course, given current exchange rates). Sadly, this tasty bowl of heaven does not appear on the spring menu, which debuted last week. However, the Candele should return on the fall menu and hopefully will make guest appearances in the spring from time to time. In its place, though, are some worthy substitutes.



The newly-added Gnocchi Sardi with Proscuitto and English Peas ($16 for a full portion, half serving pictured) screams spring. Some of the pasta water is mixed with a little parmesan cheese to create a light sauce, while the peas taste so fresh and crisp you’d swear you were eating them right out of the pod.



The spring menu also features the Robiola Francobolli with Bluefoot Mushrooms ($16 for a full portion, half serving pictured). The silky and transparent Francobolli are barely thick enough to last more than a few seconds in your mouth before they melt, releasing the rich and creamy goat’s milk cheese known as Robiola. Combined with the meaty Bluefoot, you’ll enjoy a dish that’s rich and satisfying, yet light and delicate enough for spring time.



The most compelling and decadent addition to the spring menu is the mouth-watering Stuffed Baby Lamb “allo Spiedo” with Soft Polenta and Rosemary ($30). The baby lamb is de-boned and filled with a stuffing made from the liver, kidneys and leg meat. It’s then all tied together, roasted on a spit with thyme and rosemary, sliced and served on a warm pillow of polenta. These stunningly fresh, rich flavors are transcendent, making this second course well worth the money.



In Italy, most osterias and trattorias offer a simple, inexpensive house wine by the carafe; it’s part of the culture. Osteria does not participate in this humble tradition. But you’ll barely miss it. Sommeliers Karina Lyons (formerly with Susanna Foo) and Brett Taylor enthusiastically guide customers through a well-crafted, all-Italian wine list that is both fun and amazingly affordable, offering wines by the bottle, glass and quartina (a mini-carafe, about two glasses). As I have said elsewhere, the one thing you give up at a BYOB in Philadelphia is the wine service—the skills of a seasoned professional who can make recommendations that will make both the wine and the meal taste better than they would alone. Osteria delivers an impressive wine service that is hard to match. I’ve watched Ms. Lyons gently and diplomatically steer customers away from unwise pairings and then suggest a more appropriate and less-expensive alternative—a rare combination of skills.

One of the more exciting reds on the list is the Tommaso Bussola “BG” Valpolicella Classico DOC 2004 ($10/glass). The nose carries a strong peaty fragrance of nutrient-rich earth, but the palate is surprisingly light and refreshing, with red berry flavors. And the wine’s virtually non-existent tannins and bright acids make it rather versatile with lighter fare.



It’s hard to go wrong with a dessert menu that features home-made gems such as gelati and chocolate flan. But the dessert here that should not be overlooked is the inventive yet unassuming Polenta Budino ($8), which is guaranteed to evoke your most carefree childhood memory. Osteria mixes sugar with the polenta instead of salt, giving it an almost cookie-dough-like flavor. A dollop of hazelnut mousse is added and topped with hazelnuts candied with peanut brittle. It’s like watching Saturday morning cartoons with your favorite bowl of cereal.

Osteria
640 North Broad Street
Philadelphia, PA 19130
(215) 763-0920

For more Osteria pics, go here.

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Water Works Restaurant and Lounge

The Water Works Restaurant and Lounge has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of the year. So, I was looking forward to dining there as soon as possible, assuming I could get in.

“Fully Committed.”

That’s what I heard when I called for reservations. A gentle way of saying they’re booked. But Water Works appreciates that the way they say it matters. Good service is more than filling your coffee cup six times a la Mr. Pink. The devil is in the details, and these days one of those details is language. There’s a difference between a restaurant whose servers ask, “Have you finished enjoying your meal?” when they’re looking to clear your plate and a restaurant whose servers ask, “Are you done working on that?” Restaurants with good service appreciate the difference. And so should you, especially when you’re dropping serious coin for dinner. For that reason, hearing that Water Works was “fully committed” was oddly refreshing. The servers at Water Works also practiced this level of professionalism; they were attentive, knowledgeable and already comfortable in their routines.

But hearing “fully committed” doesn’t mean you can’t get a table at Water Works. Here’s a tip your hotel concierge may not yet know: the 80 intimate, waterfront seats outside on the mezzanine with a spectacular view of the sunset are available on a first come, first served basis. In other words, the best seats in the house can be yours without a reservation. There is a rub, however (there always is). Two actually, but they’re small. First, you’re exposed to the elements. There are no umbrellas on the mezzanine; they would ruin the view for those inside who have reservations. So, if it rains, you’re going to get wet. If it’s hot, you’re going to sweat. Lights, too, would ruin the insiders’ view. A friend of mine who dined there at night noted that it was difficult to read the menu by candlelight. Second, some of the tables are very small. Although our entrée plates fit on the bistro-sized table, not much else did. Edward Doherty, the Director of Operations at Water Works, explained that the outside tables originally were limited to the Meze menu. Small plates; hence, small tables. But patrons kept asking for the full dinner menu, and they wisely relented. Doherty confessed that the small tables weren’t working, so look for an adjustment to be made, if it hasn’t been made already.



Although the wine list is short, it is respectable and very reasonably priced. It covers the popular varietals; however, I would like to have seen a few more mid-priced wines. For example, the 2004 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc, Fig Tree Vineyard ($28), which we ordered, was the least expensive Sauvignon Blanc on the list. However, the next least expensive Sauvignon Blanc jumped to $50. The Quivira is actually a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (88%) and Semillon (12%). It has a wonderful grapefruit and melon aroma, and the fruitiness found on the nose carries through to the palate. The Semillon, which marries well with oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc, adds a touch of richness and complexity to this summer-time potable.



There is more to experience at Water Works than the sunset. Chef Adan Trinidad (formerly with El Vez) has crafted a Mediterranean-themed menu that is accessible, reasonably priced and ambitious. For starters, we decided to split two appetizers and a salad. First, we had the Grilled Halloumi Cheese with Roasted Hot Pepper and Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($7). For those unfamiliar with this Greek cheese, here are two things to know: (1) it has a high melting point, which means it is perfect for grilling; and (2) it’s salty. When I grill Halloumi, I top it with tomatoes soaked in olive oil; the tomato helps to balance out the saltiness. That’s just how I roll. Water Works, though, served their Halloumi with a roasted hot pepper sauce. The sauce was subtle and did not provide the balance you get with tomatoes. At the same time, however, it was zesty, refreshing and emphasized the basic elements of the Halloumi.



Next, we had the Meatballs with Roasted Eggplant and Smoked Yellow Tomato Puree ($7). The sauce had a light, mild spice and the eggplant added a comfortingly hearty texture. The meatballs were made with lamb (if I recall correctly) and were very tasty. My only criticism is that the meatballs appeared to be just a tad underdone.



Our last starter was the Arugula Salad with Wine-Poached Pears, Pine Nuts, Goat Cheese and Champagne Vinaigrette ($8). The salad was elegant. I love goat cheese and pine nuts, probably a bit too much. So, I was disappointed that in this dish they were merely decorative accents. But I suppose this style of presentation is appropriate for an elegant salad. The vinaigrette was strikingly tangy. Acidity heightens the flavor of food. But here, for some reason, the vinaigrette seemed to compete with and subdue the meatiness of the arugula. The pears were candy-sweet and, of course, fit well with the vinaigrette.



For the main course, I had the Pan-Seared Black Bass with Saffron Infused Tomato Broth, Yellow Split Peas, Confit Tomato and Braised Leeks ($24). The bass was cooked perfectly. A red sauce can be tricky with fish; it has the potential to overpower a lighter fish like bass. Fortunately, though, despite its dark, rich appearance, the broth was actually quite light with a delicate, peppery background flavor. The broth did not add the dimension to the fish that one would expect given its bold color, but it did provide a smooth transition to the savory yellow split peas. The braised leeks were rich and delicious, yet they did not seem to connect with the rest of the entrée.



My wife had the Grilled Tuna with Creamy Fava Beans and Kalamata Olive Vinaigrette ($25). The tuna came in the form of medallions, which may not be the best way to present this dish. The center of each medallion, properly, was rare. But the edges, troublingly, were well done. The creamy fava beans were fresh, addictive and cooked to perfection; it was hard to keep my fork off my wife’s plate.



Stuffed as I was, our server talked me into dessert. But, then again, she did know the magic word: chocolate. More specifically, Warm Chocolate Truffle Cake with Candied Cherries, Manouri Ice Cream and Fresh Crème with Nutmeg—a steal at $9.00. This dish is notable not only for the way it tastes, but for the way it is presented. Here, Pastry Chef Chad Durkin (formerly with Susanna Foo) provides you with refined materials (cake, crème, ice cream and two fruits—tomato and cherries), allowing you to combine flavors on your own to construct each bite. Participating in the dessert changes the way you eat. The tomato/cherry combo is a Greek thing, apparently—acid and sugar. I get it in theory, but the tomato just didn’t do it for me. The warm chocolate truffle cake and the crème with nutmeg, on the other hand, were sinfully decadent.



The sun was setting and the last bite of dessert was still ghosting around on my palate. A server looking to clear asked, “Have you finished enjoying your meal?” Indeed, we had. And so will you.

Water Works Restaurant and Lounge
640 Water Works Drive
Philadelphia, PA 19130
215-236-9000

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