Pocket Sommelier - Mercato

In today’s City Paper you’ll find the latest edition of Pocket Sommelier. I pair wine with two dishes at Mercato: the Ricotta Gnocchi in a Short Rib Ragu; and the intense, flavorful and organic Braised Jamison Farm Lamb Shank that was recently added to the menu.

Most people bring one bottle of wine to a BYOB. But more often than not, that one wine will not match every course. It may seem silly to bring two or even three bottles of wine to a restaurant, but the wrong wine could ruin a dish. For example, two of the Chiantis we brought went well with the gnocchi, but they were a complete mismatch for the lamb.

However, the Cab I alluded to at the end of my post about the Philly Wine Festival—the Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wetzel Family Estate 2004—paired amazingly well with the lamb. What’s exciting about this wine is that it has the same type of rich, spicy profile found in some of the more celebrated California Cabs, but it’s one third the price.



Carnivores with a conscience will not want to miss the chance to savor Mercato's new lamb dish. The meat was so tender it spilled off the bone before my fork even touched it. And Jamison Farm, located in Latrobe, PA, is known far and wide for raising its lambs on a diet that is 100% natural and free of hormones, antibiotics, herbicides and insecticides. I tasted a slight hint of anise in this dish, a flavor I could not attribute to any of the ingredients. Not knowing what it was drove me mad. When I later asked Chef de Cuisine Mackenzie Hilton what it could be, she posited that it might have something to do with what the lamb had eaten. Now, that’s organic.

For more pics, check out my Mercato set on Flickr.

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New Year’s Eve 2006, Part II - Tangerine

The year I turned 21 I had the worst New Year’s Eve of my life. Having come of age only a few days earlier, I was determined to spend New Year’s Eve in a bar somewhere—anywhere—engaging in what I knew would be a legendary degree of mayhem and debauchery. But that didn’t happen. Instead, I rang in the new year standing on a frozen pond in the bitter cold of someone’s back yard in central Pennsylvania, completely sober, watching a grown man and his eleven year-old son shoot pistols into the sky at the stroke of midnight. It was a sad moment. But as I stood there tasting the spent gunpowder carried by the crisp winter air, I realized something that I have taken great comfort in ever since—no matter what happens the rest of my days, I probably never would have a New Year’s Eve any worse than that.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, New Year’s Eve 2005 was one of the best New Year’s Eves I’ve ever had. We went to Tangerine with close friends of ours from D.C. I don’t remember many details about the meal. But I have been reminded (and am embarrassed to admit) that I was so captivated by the food that night that I was oblivious of the exotic belly dancers parading through the restaurant and undulating beside our table. That, too, was a sad moment, I suppose, but for different reasons.



I wanted to try Tangerine again this year, hoping for a repeat. The deal was similar to last year: passed hors d’oeuvres, a five course meal served family style, a Champagne toast and dessert buffet at midnight—and, of course, belly dancers—for $120 per person.



Tangerine’s meal this year had a few conceptual and execution issues. For the most part, though, these issues were easy for me to overlook because the dishes were so flavorful. For example, the second course was a Lobster Velouté with Fennel Purée and Tarragon Oil. The lobster, while rich and buttery, had a noticeably chewy texture and was a little overcooked. But, overall, the dish was so rich and flavorful (particularly the fennel purée and tarragon oil, which complemented the buttery lobster nicely) I was willing to overlook the texture of the lobster.



The third course—the Mediterranean Turbot with Crab Risotto, Olive Tomato Ragout—is another example. The Turbot, although well-prepared, did not seem to fit well with the rest of the dish. The rich risotto and the olive tomato ragout, however, were addictive together. The ragout, itself, was surprisingly rich. And, paired with the rich risotto, they were flavorful enough to carry the dish without the Turbot.



Similarly, the Potato Mushroom Gratin that accompanied the fifth course—the Moraccan Spiced Filet Mignon and Horseradish Creamed Swiss Chard—was overwhelmingly salty. But the cinnamon and all spice that were used to season the filet made the dish taste like Christmas.



Some dishes, however, struggled more than others. The first course—the American Sturgeon Caviar atop molded tabouli that included blue fin tuna alongside golden raisin crisps—was ill-conceived. The sweet and toasty caviar was delicious solo. But the onion-heavy tabouli was way too overpowering to be paired with something as delicate as caviar.



Also, the fourth course—the Harissa Grilled Lamb with Rosemary Socca, Eggplant Salad and Harissa Yogurt—was a great idea, but did not quite hit the mark. The smokiness in the creamy eggplant salad was satisfying, and I enjoyed the use of the socca. But the lamb was very dry and stole a lot of the momentum from this dish.



The dessert table, new this year, was a huge hit. The table held almost a dozen different ways to break the New Year’s resolution you made only a few moments ago. The one misstep that was inexcusable, though, was that the Champagne did not make it to our table until almost 12:20 a.m. I rang in the new year with a glass of 2003 Chateau Josephine de Boyd (Margaux), the second wine from the Second Growth Bordeaux Chateau Brane-Cantenac, which we enjoyed during dinner. Not a bad way to ring in the New Year. But for $120 a person, getting the Champagne out on time is the one part of the service you simply shouldn’t botch.



There is nothing like ringing in the new year with a great meal. And, despite the few nits discussed above, Tangerine delivered.

Tangerine
232 Market Street
(215) 627-5116

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Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro

No one can dispute that the Philadelphia restaurant scene has come into its own. Yet, there are certain types of establishments that are ubiquitous in other cities but noticeably scarce in ours. The wine bar is one of them. The recent opening of Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro, however, goes a long way to filling this void.

At Vintage, the entrepreneurial spirit is flowing almost as much as the wine. Owners Jason and Delphine Evenchik are veterans of Philadelphia’s restaurant scene who decided to open a place of their own; Jason worked at Le Bec-Fin and Delphine was the Assistant Manager of Caribou Café. In addition to having the experience, energy and street cred for this venture, the Evenchiks also had the courage to use designers they found in a nontraditional forum—craigslist. And it paid off. One of their designers, Vin Marshall of T.E. Motorworks, Inc., fabricated an eye-catching, signature chandelier: a multi-tiered wrought iron frame with collage of empty wine bottles carefully arranged upside down around the edge of each tier. It may steal your attention when you enter the room, but ultimately it reminds you of what you’re there to do—drink wine.



The meticulously crafted wine list is even more impressive than the chandelier. The owners have successfully managed to assemble a broad and diverse wine list without sacrificing any depth. There is something on the list for everyone and, at the same time, the wines are compelling enough to have been hand picked from someone’s private wine cellar. New wines are added frequently, guaranteeing fresh surprises on return visits. As if all of that wasn’t enough, the wines are remarkably affordable. Most glasses are between $5 and $8, and bottles, on average, run in the $30 range. Another small but incredibly valuable feature of the list is that each wine has tasting notes. Not only does this allow you to preview the wines before you drink them, it also educates you on how to identify what you’re tasting, giving you the tools you need to become your own wine critic. If you get stuck on what to choose, the wait staff is skillful at recommending something you’re bound to enjoy.

On my first visit to Vintage, this time with a friend of mine, I instinctively went for a glass of the elusive Mark West Pinot Noir 2004 ($8). The Mark West had a pleasant red fruit nose with ripe raspberry on the palate and a hint of chocolate on the finish. Our server recommended that I try a glass of the Michel Picard Cote-du-Rhone 2003 ($7), which I thoroughly enjoyed. This is a refreshing, light-bodied red, perfect for summer quaffing. The fruit in this wine is mostly on the nose, which has a soft blueberry aroma. Strong tannins grab you in the beginning, but then gently smooth out on the back and sides of your tongue for a warm, velvety finish. I enjoyed the Picard so much that I stubbornly stuck with it on my second visit to Vintage, this time with my wife. She had a glass of Ironstone Obsession Symphony 2004 ($8), which I sampled. The symphony grape is a cross between the Muscat of Alexandria and the Grenache Gris. The result is a semi-sweet white wine that has a powerful nose of peaches and tropical fruit and a light, crisp, non-oak finish.

The food menu consists mainly of small plates designed to accompany the wine. In the tradition of the authentic French bistro, daily specials are written on small chalkboards that the servers ceremoniously bring to your table. Over my two visits to Vintage, I have sampled many of their small plates (seven, to be exact), so given that I’ve already breached blogging etiquette with the length of this post, I may as well go for broke and give you all seven.

The “must have” dish on the menu has to be the Brie en Croute ($12)—baked brie wrapped in a light puff pastry served with caramelized pear and carambola (a/k/a/ star fruit). This filling, decadent delight is served with bread. The pear and star fruit are more than just garnishes. The star fruit, in particular, elevated the brie to a completely different level. Its tangy, succulent juices complemented the rich, savory brie in a unique way.



The North African Spiced Lamb kefta ($12) consists of ground lamb spiced with a variety of North African spices skewered and grilled and served with mint cilantro tzatziki. Despite its name, this dish is extremely safe. The North African spices used here are light, mild, and incredibly subtle (almost too subtle); adding, at most, a bit of sweetness to the juicy lamb. Cilantro has earned a reputation for being overwhelming at times. But that’s not the case here. The chef was careful to add just the right amount to give the cool tzatziki a light, delicate accent.



The Goat Cheese Plate ($15) was one of the daily specials. It came with three cheeses, going clockwise from one o'clock: Morbier, Capri and Cypress. The Morbier (a cow’s milk cheese that was a last minute replacement) was my favorite; sweet, creamy and deliciously nutty toward the middle and end. Coupling the Morbier with a slice of pear seemed to amplify the nutty flavor and to convince it to appear closer to the beginning. The Capri (which, if the spelling is correct, is an American goat cheese) was the least adventurous of the three, but still enjoyable; creamy with an earthy finish. The Cypress (a brand name, I believe) was earthy and tangy; pairing this with the sweet fig added some colorful balance.



The Chacuterie Plate ($14) contains thinly sliced Parma prosciutto, soprasetta and pate de campagne garnished with Cornichon and whole grain mustard. This pate is very accessible. It is a coarsely ground traditional French country pate that is light and mild with warm garlic flavor and a short, pleasant aftertaste.

The Caesar Salad ($7.50) was light and enjoyable. The house made croutons highlight this dish. The croutons appear to have been pan fried in olive oil, making them light, crispy and addictive. The salad had only a delicate whisper of anchovy, which was curious for a Caesar but not necessarily disappointing. The manchego cheese, however, was a puzzling choice. This cheese is mild and was difficult to isolate through the creamy Caesar dressing, so it didn’t appear to add anything to the dish.

For those with a heartier appetite, there’s the Vintage Burger ($11)—a certified angus burger topped with apple wood smoked bacon, roasted red pepper and shaved manchego served with Belgian fries and a truffle smoked tomato aioli. Based on the small taste I had, the burger was respectable and satisfying, especially the sweet, smoky bacon. The truffle smoked tomato aioli, however, unexpectedly stole the show. The distinctively rich and earthy truffle oil is explosive, but not overpowering, and pairs nicely with the garlic in the tomato aioli. Although the Belgian fries and aioli should continue to be paired with the burger, they also deserve separate billing on the menu.



The Chocolate pot de crème ($8.00) was listed as one of the daily specials, but I’m hoping it becomes as much of a regular as I plan to be. The cream clearly is hand whipped. Beneath the cream is a sinful layer of rich, surprisingly creamy caramel. Normally, I prefer an unencumbered pot de crème, but because caramel itself was surprisingly creamy it blended seamlessly with the rich chocolate.



Like its wine list, Vintage’s food menu strikes a good balance. It has plates that are safe enough to give the menu a wide appeal and yet it also has enough color and authenticity to satisfy even the most discriminating foodies and keep them coming back for more.

Vintage
129 South 13th Street
(215) 922-3095

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Monk’s Café

“Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
–Benjamin Franklin

If you’ve ever been to Monk’s Cafe, you will understand what it is about this beverage that inspired Ben opine on it as he did. No doubt this quote has been uttered in Monk’s a time or two. I’m sure I’ve tried to recite it myself while sitting at the bar, which is difficult to do after you’ve quaffed a few Kwaks.

The principal reason to go to this Old World, Belgian-style pub, of course, is the beer. Monk’s beer selection is staggeringly vast. If you have trouble making decisions or if you’re intimidated by a beer list that’s longer than Bill Gates’ tax return, this may not be the place for you. But if you love great beer or are simply open to adventure, you’ll be right at home. There are tools to guide you. Monk’s Beer Bible is always within reach. You can also pick from the beers on draught at the Front Bar. Also, don’t overlook the impressive array of Belgian beers on draught at the Back Bar. I recommend asking the bartenders or your server for advice. If you do, they may begin to quiz you like you just arrived to pick their daughter up to go to the prom. Don’t be alarmed. Selecting a beer at Monk’s is a serious matter; they’re just trying to learn about your tastes to pair you with a beer you’ll enjoy. Trust them. These folks are smart. Answer their questions, and follow their advice. You will not be disappointed.

We asked the bartender if she could recommend something new. The bartender recommended St. Feuillien Tripel. She chose wisely. Traditionally, a tripel is a light-bodied beer with a sweet flavor from the malt that is balanced by the bitterness of the hops. This tripel was unique; it was not too sweet, not too hoppy and very smooth. The second beer we had was a La Rulles Tripel, an admirable tripel—fruity and spicy with a nice citrus finish. The alcohol content of these beers can rock you back on your stool. Just be aware.

Oh … and Monk’s has food, too. Good food. If beer is the principal reason to go to Monk’s, the second reason to go is the mussels. At least that’s what I hear. Unfortunately, I’m not a fan of mussels in general, so I cannot speak from much experience. But from what I’ve heard from those who enjoy mussels, the offerings at Monk’s can’t be beat.

This night I decided to start with the veal cheeks, which are braised in Abbaye de Leffe Belgian ale with vegetables, spanish olives, garlic and herbs. The veal was juicy and full of flavor. It’s a sophisticated and rewarding starter. For the main course, I went with old faithful—a burger with blue cheese and a side of pommes frites. The burger is served on a roll so delicious it would make even Dr. Robert Atkins drool (and that guy’s dead, so you know this is quality bread). Monk’s frites are short, thin and have a thorough dusting of spices. Not what I would consider traditional Belgian frites, but good nonetheless. They are served with bourbon mayonnaise. Again, a different spin on the traditional condiment for Belgian frites and, I’ll admit, not my favorite part of the meal, but it works.

This place is always packed. Standing room only. So arrive abnormally early or learn to be patient, which is not too difficult to do while you’re enjoying a bottle of Troublette.

Monk’s Café
16th and Spruce Street
(215) 545-7005

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Caribou Café

Last night I visited Caribou Cafe, a French bistro located on Walnut Street between 11th and 12th. Caribou Cafe is pure, basic French. Chef-Owner Oliver de Saint Martin has a talent for combining flavors while staying true to this premise, and the courses I enjoyed are good examples of that talent.

My first course was one of the nightly specials; mixed greens with prosciutto, nuts, roquefort and a blackberry vinaigrette. The salad came out without the prosciutto, but the server quickly corrected the error—no biggie. The prosciutto, nuts and roquefort married elegantly, and the blackberry vinaigrette was light and subtle. The only quirk was the sliced, grilled pear that topped the salad, which did not add much to the course.

My main course, also one of the specials, was the pan-seared salmon over petite brussels sprouts with a béarnaise sauce. The salmon was well prepared and melted in my mouth. Chef Saint Martin’s béarnaise sauce was brilliant. Its reduction included bacon, which helped to draw out the nutty flavor of the sprouts.

For me, there’s only one dessert at Caribou—the chocolate mousse. Dense, creamy, almost pure cocoa. It’s served with a warm wafer. Simple and perfect. I recommend enjoying it with Frangelico.

Caribou Café
1126 Walnut St.
215-625-9535

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