Philadelphia Magazine's Best of Philly 2007 - Food & Drink

It’s that time of year again, folks. The time when Philadelphia Magazine dishes on the things it loves the most about Philly. "Essential" and "authoritative," Phily Mag’s “Best Of ” issue is a Philadelphia institution. Editor Larry Platt says it best: "We don’t just try to reflect your world and tell you what you like; instead, we try to influence your world, by spending all year combing the region in order to tell you what you should like.” This year, Philly Mag returns to some of the more basic categories and gives you something extra—a handy little “black book” that you can tear out and take with you anywhere you go, making the 2007 Best Of issue a must read.

Without further ado, here are a few highlights from Philadelphia Magazine’s Best of Philly 2007, Food & Drink:



Best New Restaurant, City: Osteria. Given the number of high caliber restaurants that opened this year, this choice could not have been easy for the folks at Philadelphia Magazine. Indeed, April White confesses there was “heated debate” over this category. But I could not agree more with this choice—Osteria captures the authenticity of the Italian dining experience by delivering high quality Italian food in a casual yet polished atmosphere. From the “fine handmade” pastas to the “ethereal” Polenta Budino, there is much to love about Osteria. Check out my Osteria review here.



Best Chef: Jonathan McDonald. Philly Mag likes Snackbar's Johnny Mac for the same reason I do: He’s the MacGyver of the kitchen when it comes to successfully combining seemingly incompatible ingredients. The guy is fearless. Give McDonald any three random ingredients and you can guarantee he’ll rescue your palate from boredom. You can find my Snackbar review here.



Best Entrée: The Roast Chicken at James. I know what you’re thinking. Chicken? Believe me, I, too, would be scratching my head had I not eaten Chef Burke’s Cornish game hen myself and written about it here. Burke’s secret is to select high quality meats and to cook them slow and low to concentrate the flavors.

Best Indian: Tiffin Store. I’ve taken great pleasure in introducing my friends to Tiffin Store. The downside to having done that, of course, is that it now takes me longer to get my delivery because the place is busier than ever. Quality Indian food at reasonable prices, you say? You better believe it.


Best Food Trend: The Sequel. This year, Philly took a page from Hollywood’s playbook and adapted it to the restaurant scene. Daniel Stern’s “Empire Strikes Back” with Rae. Marc Vetri, Philly’s “Godfather” of Italian cuisine, “pulls [us] back in” with Osteria. And thanks to Tinto, Jose Garces now has “Two Towers” on the Philly tapas scene. Next year’s Best Food Trend? I’m thinking it could be The Trilogy. After a diversion to Chicago to open Mercat later this year (which will feature Barcelonan-style tapas and charcuterie), Garces will come back to Philly to open Chilango, a Mexico City-inspired taqueria that (I kid you not) will pay tribute to Mexican professional wrestlers. Though it sounds more like “Nacho Libre,” if the success of Amada and Tinto are any indication, Chilango will herald the “Return of the King.” Either way, I’m getting my ticket in advance.

Want to know who won the Best Cheesesteak, City category? How about Best New BYOB? Best Pizza? Pick up your own copy of the Best of Philly 2007 edition of Philadelphia Magazine. It hits newsstands on Monday.

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James

It felt like we were intruding on a private moment. It was 5:30 p.m. on a cold February evening when we walked into James for an early dinner. There was no music playing in the restaurant. No one was even humming a tune, at least none that we could hear. But Chef Jim Burke and his wife, Kristina, were slow dancing in the restaurant’s intimate lounge. Chef Burke deftly twirled Kristina in front of the crackling fireplace. They smiled and laughed playfully. A small crowd, mostly James employees, watched silently as a well-equipped photographer snapped pictures of our two dancers. But the enchanted couple barely seemed to notice as they glided through the room to their own ballad. After one final spin and a longing gaze, it was time to get back to work. Chef Burke headed to the kitchen and Kristina returned to the elegant dining room to check on preparations for the evening’s service.



The restaurant had been open only two months when Chef Burke and Kristina danced to their silent music, but the song of James’s success was already starting to be written. The first note was the photographer that night. He was taking pictures for the June 2007 issue of Food & Wine magazine in which James’s signature dish was featured, Risotto alla Kristina—a scrumptiously soupy Venetian-style risotto made with Prosecco, orchid oil and raw oysters that are folded in at the end of the preparation to give them just a touch of warmth. Before the Food & Wine piece hit the streets, though, other influentials formed an inspirational chorus: Philadelphia Magazine, City Paper, Philadelphia Weekly, Philly Style Magazine, aroundphilly.com—each a unique voice, but all singing generally in tune. Then came Craig LaBan’s review. The deep, resonate tones of LaBan’s rarely-heard “three bells” and his lyrically penned prose made the symphony complete. Now, everyone can hear the tune that was guiding Jim and Kristina’s steps on that cold evening back in February. And the reservation book shows it; a thirty-two person wait list is not unheard of and the lounge is packed with diners clamoring to eat from the slightly abridged bar menu.



Such high accolades may seem surprising given that this is their first restaurant venture, but this couple has paid their dues. Kristina’s management stints have included the recently-closed Pasion!, Striped Bass and Miel Patisserie. And Chef Burke’s pedigree includes Vivo Enoteca in Wayne and Stephen Starr’s short-lived Italian restaurant, Angelina.



But the one restaurant on Chef Burke’s resume you could probably guess just by tasting his pasta is Vetri. Chef Marc Vetri is renowned for crafting authentic, homemade pasta. And it’s clear that Chef Vetri passed these artisan skills on to Chef Burke because the pasta at James is pitch perfect. Burke’s skills do not stop there; he’s also a virtuoso when it comes to combining flavors to strike creative culinary chords. The espresso, for example, he added to the winter menu’s savory Sweet Potato Ravioli with Oxtail Ragu gives the dish depth and allows the sweetness of both the filling and red wine sauce to emerge. Similarly, the delicate earthiness of the porcini mushrooms in this season’s Stuffed Tortelloni highlight the bright blueberry sauce. And, of course, the synergy between the mild orange and chocolate flakes shaved tableside in his popular hand-rolled Pappardelle with Duck Ragu makes this dish a masterpiece.



Burke’s meats, too, should not be overlooked. His secret is to select fresh, quality cuts of meat and not to overly prepare them. Last season’s pork loin, for example, was prepared by first gently searing it and then slowly cooking it on a low heat to concentrate the flavors and hold in the juices. This season’s Cornish Game Hen receives similar respect—delicately crisp on the outside while tender, juicy and flavorful on the inside. And the locally grown vegetables that were still in the ground only a few days earlier serve as the perfect complement to this hen.



The desserts at James trend toward the savory side, but they often incorporate citrus elements for a little sweetness and some refined contrast. The addictive Chocolate Terrine, which is made with bittersweet chocolate, sits on crisp olive oil fried bread and is topped with Fleur de Sel, is accompanied by some refreshing quince paste. Also, the rich Brown Ale Mousse, which sits on a pillowy almond cake and is topped with a crisp, toasty almond toffee, comes with sliced pears. Those with more of a sweet tooth can add a scoop of homemade gelato, which have included exciting flavors such as Cardamom and Black Walnut from Green Meadow Farms.



If there’s anything about James that could strike a challenging chord for some, it would be the portion size and price. The portions are not large; they’re elegantly sized, probably more in line with the amount of food we should be eating and not what we’ve been conditioned to believe is necessary. So, those looking for never-ending pasta bowls should eat elsewhere. That said, the meals I’ve had at James have been satisfying and I’ve never left hungry or wanting more. The prices at James are in line with what you’d expect to pay at other fine restaurants in Center City. And the stylish food and professional and attentive service at James are definitely worth the money. But the prices mirror the grace and sophistication of the couple’s creation, making James more of a special occasion destination than an everyday hangout.

Much like a poetic symphony from the Romantic era, James seems destined to become one of the classics. Center City will be singing and dancing to Jim and Kristina’s music for a long time to come.

James
824 S. 8th Street
(215) 629-4980

For more pics, check out the James set on my Flickr page.

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