Showing posts with label News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label News. Show all posts

January 09, 2008

Livin' La Vida Locavore

Focaccia with Local Cherry Tomatoes

Because “locavore” was named 2007’s word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary, I thought it would be fun to research and write an article about the history of Philadelphia’s local food system and how Philadelphia has become a model for other communities around the country. The article is called Cult of Seasonality and you can find it in this week’s City Paper.

Philadelphia’s local food system is more advanced than you may think. For example, in researching the article I learned about a unique business called Farm Fresh Express—which, in some ways, is a more flexible alternative to CSAs. First, there's no commitment. Second, they have a wide variety of choices each week because co-owners Mary Ann Flaherty and Pam Nelson source from many local farms and other local food purveyors. Third, they offer the flexibility to order in any quantity you choose. Fourth, they will even have the food delivered straight to your door, even in Center City, for a mere $10 delivery fee. According to Flaherty, “Some of our customers have told us that they’ve basically stopped going to the grocery store except for toilet paper.”

Photo from James's Buy Fresh Buy Local Happy Hour, July 2007.

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December 23, 2007

Philly Uncorked

Corks
Philly.com has teamed up with The Wine School of Philadelphia to bring you Philly Uncorked—an informative and entertaining wine video program. The first episode is about Chianti. Wine School professionals Keith Wallace and Maria Valeta teach us about this region and the wine it produces, give us a range of winning picks and describe a perfect food pairing. Keith also shares a very technical term of art that’s used to describe unappealing wines. Watch the video here.

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December 10, 2007

Menu for Hope 4

Menu for Hope

Menu for Hope is an annual charity fundraiser organized by Pim Techamuanvivit, author of Chez Pim, the most respected food blog on the Internet. Five years ago, the devastating tsunami in Southeast Asia inspired Pim to find a way to help, and the first Menu for Hope was born. The campaign has since become a yearly affair, raising funds to support worthy causes worldwide. In 2006, Menu for Hope raised $62,925 to help the UN World Food Programme feed the hungry. This year, the money will again go to the U.N.'s World Food Programme.

For two weeks every December, food bloggers from all over the world join the campaign by offering a delectable array of food-related prizes for the Menu for Hope raffle. Anyone can buy raffle tickets to bid on these prizes. For every $10 donated, entrants earn one virtual raffle ticket to bid on a prize of their choice. At the end of the two-week campaign, the raffle tickets are drawn and the results announced on Chez Pim.

To support this cause, I have submitted “Two Class Gift Certificate” to be used at The Wine School of Philadelphia, which was generously donated by the school. Valued at $100, this certificate is enough for two seats to most wine classes offered at the school. You can take two classes yourself, or you and a friend can attend one class together. Even better, you can use this gift certificate for anything that the school offers, including custom-made crystal glassware. The Prize Code for this gift certificate is UE42.

If you’re interested in bidding on this prize or any of the other prizes being offered, here’s what you need to do:

1. Choose a prize or prizes from the Menu for Hope at http://www.chezpim.com/blogs/2007/12/menu-for-hope-4.html You can also visit Serious Eats, which is acting as the host for all of the prizes being offered in the East Coast region: http://www.seriouseats.com/required_eating/2007/12/menu-for-hope-4-east-coast-prize-list.html

2. Go to the donation site at http://www.firstgiving.com/menuforhope4 and follow the instructions to make a donation. Make sure to use the Prize Code of the item on which you’re bidding. If you’re bidding on the Wine School of Philadelphia gift certificate, the Prize Code is UE42.

3. Check back on Chez Pim on Wednesday, January 9, 2008 for the results of the raffle.

Good luck and thank you for your support.

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December 09, 2007

That's Professor "Wine Snob" to You, Pal

The Wine School of Philadelphia

In Taste, its 2007 dining guide, Philadelphia Weekly said I am “one of the biggest wine snobs you’ll ever meet, and you’ll be glad you found your way into his sommelier presence.”

Now, it will be easier for you to find your way into my “sommelier presence.” I am now an instructor at The Wine School of Philadelphia.

But those looking for snobbery will be disappointed. Much like the wine writing on my blog, the classes I’ll be teaching at the Wine School are designed to demystify wine and make it more accessible to the masses. The school offers classes at two locations: its main location at 2006 Fairmount Ave. and at its newly-opened satellite classroom at Pinot Boutique, located in Old City at 227 Market St. Sign up for a class here.

Tomorrow I’ll tell you about a special opportunity to win a gift certificate good for two classes at the Wine School.

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December 06, 2007

What's Good for the Goose is Good for the Gander

The Ducks Drink

In his Inqlings column yesterday, Michael Klein reported that Hugs for Puppies (“HFP”) and Professionals Against Foie Gras are hosting a “No Foie Gras Gala” this Saturday at 6 p.m. at the Ethical Society on Rittenhouse Square. HFP has become infamous for protesting restaurants that serve foie gras, and its tactics have been disturbing enough to convince courts to issue two injunctions against the group.

But, as Klein reported, this time the shoe is on the other foot. In a karmic twist of fate, a group of people who support foie gras plan to protest HFP's gala.

I learned that the pro-foie gras protest is being spearheaded by Terry McNally, co-owner of the London Grill—one of the few restaurants to stand up to HFP. McNally said that, unlike some of the people who protested her restaurant, she isn’t interested in acting crazy. “I don’t actually want to ‘protest’ as much as wanting to be there [to share] correct information,” McNally said via email. According to McNally, the protest begins at 5:30 p.m.

But McNally and her supporters may not be the only ones who will be there. Turns out that a film crew from France is in the country filming a documentary about foie gras for French TV. My source tells me that the film crew may make a detour to Philly on Saturday evening to film the gala protest.

And if that wasn’t enough foie gras redux (re-ducks?) for you, check out this article in the recent issue of Esquire by John Mariani called “The Truth About Foie Gras.” Mariani visited Hudson Valley Foie Gras recently and he came to the same conclusion I did.

UPDATE: I just confirmed directly with Lacroix that Chef Matthew Levin will be serving the pro-foie gras protestors free canapés, including medallions of foie gras. Sounds like the protestors may end up eating better fare than the gala attendees.

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September 30, 2007

John Mariani Profiles Philadelphia's Restaurants

Tinto's De Chorizo de Pamplona

It’s exciting when the Philadelphia restaurant scene receives national attention. National food and wine writers dine all over the globe, and so it’s always interesting to see how the depth and breadth of their palates inform their opinions of our little corner of the culinary world.

John Mariani is the latest to weigh-in on Philadelphia’s restaurant scene. He is one of the most seasoned and highly respected food and wine writers around. He is a columnist for Esquire, Wine Spectator, Diversion, Bloomberg News & Radio, and Restaurant Hospitality. He has also authored The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, The Dictionary of American Food & Drink, and with his wife Galina, the award-winning new The Dictionary of Italian Food and DrinkItalian-American Cookbook.

Mariani also publishes a free weekly newsletter on his site, JohnMariani.com (free registration required for archives). In the September 23 issue, Mariani profiles Philadelphia restaurants and reviews some of his current favorites: Rae, 707, Tinto and Susanna Foo in Radnor.

Like other outsiders, one of the things Mariani bemoans generally about Philadelphia is the high mark-ups on wine. However, despite the constraints under which our restaurants must operate, Mariani is impressed with what he sees. He calls Ryan Davis’ wine list at Rae “first-rate,” he recognizes Tinto’s 100+ bottle wine list and says that 707’s wine list “carries some of the best bargains for good regional bottling you’ll find in Philadelphia.”

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September 26, 2007

In Tune With Fork

Grilled Striped Bass with Grape Leaves

Fork was the very first Center City restaurant in which I ever dined. So it’s fitting that Fork the first Center City restaurant in which I get to cook.

This year, Fork and owner Ellen Yin are celebrating a milestone few restaurants are fortunate enough to experience: a 10 year anniversary. To mark the occasion, Yin published Forklore: Recipes and Tales From an American Bistro (Temple University Press). Forklore is the history of Fork told through the recipes that have appeared over the years on Fork’s evolving Bistro-style menu.

For the City Paper article I was assigned to write, I came up with the idea of cooking one of the dishes with Yin in Fork’s kitchen. We made the Grilled Striped Bass in Grape Leaves with Vietnamese Rice-Paper Wraps and Coconut-Lime Dipping Sauce. The recipe actually calls for Red Snapper, but to find out why we used Striped Bass you’ll have to read the article, The Tines That Bind.

And for more pictures of the event, check out my Forklore set on Flickr.

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September 25, 2007

Philadelphia Chefs for Choice Sponsor "Freedom Foie for Five"

Philadelphia Chefs for Choice

Philadelphia Chefs for Choice invites you to Freedom Foie for Five: a special celebration of foie gras. All next week, the week of October 1, both for lunch and dinner, you will be able to sample this deliciously controversial dish for only $5 at the 20 participating restaurants listed below.

According to the organization's press release, Philadelphia Chefs for Choice is a group of concerned chefs and restaurateurs who stand for freedom of choice—theirs and yours. They have organized as a response to the animal rights movement against foie gras, line caught fish, veal, lobster and eggs.

Here is the mission statement that these 20 chefs and restaurateurs have endorsed:

We, the chefs and restaurateurs of Philadelphia, listed below, believe in the freedom of choice, for ourselves and our clients.

As chefs, we believe in the humane and natural husbandry of animals, and are dedicated to using the highest quality ingredients. As business people, we want to be able to decide what to put on our menus.

We do not believe that a minority of animal rights zealots should determine the direction of our business. Nor do we want to be intimidated by them at our restaurants or homes. We want the City Council to know that these few do not represent the whole of Philadelphia.

In the city of Philadelphia, the birthplace of American liberty, we want to keep the right to serve foie gras.

Bistro 7—Michael H. O’Halloran
Brasserie Perrier—Chris Scarduzio
Caffé Casta Diva—Stephen Vassalluzzo
Caribou Café—Olivier de Saint Martin
Django—Ross Essner
Lacroix at the Rittenhouse—Matt Levin
Le Bec-Fin—Georges Perrier
Little Fish—Mike Stollenwerk
London Grill—Terry McNally
Matyson—Matt Spector
Osteria—Jeff Michaud
Rylei Restaurant—Jose Vargas
Salt and Pepper—Shawn Ford
Standard Tap—Paul Kimport
Studio Kitchen—Shola Olunloyo
Susanna Foo—Susanna Foo
Twenty21—Sue Mahoney
Vetri—Marc Vetri
Vintage—Jason & Delphine Evenchik
Zinc—Barbara de Saint Martin

UPDATE 9/29/07: Bistro 7, Django, Studio Kitchen and Osteria will not be participating in the Foie for Five event. And according to Food and Drinq, Stephen Vassalluzzo at Caffe Casta Diva is on the fence. But add N.3rd to the list of participating restaurants. I just confirmed directly with N. 3rd that Peter Dunmire has jumped on board and will be participating in the Foie for Five event.

More after the jump.


Matyson's Seared D'Artagnan Foie Gras

The list above consists of restaurants that have actually chosen a side in this debate. The list of restaurants Hugs for Puppies ("HFP") cites, by contrast, consists mostly of restaurants it bullied. In other words, pulling foie gras off the menu doesn’t necessarily mean the restaurant believes it’s cruel. Instead, it likely means that they’re just sick of the harassment. Do you seriously believe that David Ansill had some sort of epiphany and now believes foie gras is cruel? It's also interesting to note that HFP takes credit for 4 restaurants that closed, even though the closings had nothing to do with foie gras (Restaurant M, Deux Cheminées, Pif and Le Jardin) and all 11 Stephen Starr restaurants, many of which didn't even serve foie gras.

Moreover, the list of above reflects a completely different type and degree of commitment than most of the people or businesses who sign petitions opposing foie gras. The folks above have something at stake. As HFP proudly continues to prove, there is an inherent risk in serving foie gras in Philadelphia (and, apparently, there's a risk even if you don't serve it). Also, unlike many who oppose foie gras, the individuals above will be directly affected should the proposed ban be passed. Their courage, therefore, should be taken seriously.

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September 09, 2007

Exclusive Interview: Chef Guillermo Pernot Pours His ¡Pasión! Into Cuba Libre

Cuba Libre's Concept Chef Guillermo Pernot

Chef Guillermo Pernot is credited with introducing Nuevo Latino cuisine to Philadelphia. And when he opened ¡Pasión! eight and a half years ago, the upscale establishment soon became one of the most exciting destination spots in Philadelphia, earning an impressive three bells from the Inquirer’s Craig LaBan.

But when ¡Pasión! closed suddenly this past June, Pernot was blamed.

Pernot left ¡Pasión! a year ago this September to become the Executive Concept Chef at Cuba Libre. When the Inquirer’s Michael Kline asked Michael Dombkoski, Pernot’s former partner at ¡Pasión!, why the restaurant was closing, Dombkoski partially blamed Pernot. “Everyone knew he wasn’t in his kitchen,” Dombkoski said. According to Klein’s article, Dombkoski also cited “a lack of convention business, heightened competition (including the city’s crop of BYOBs) and a burgeoning trend to more casual dining” as reasons for the closure.

Pernot has remained silent about why ¡Pasión! closed and why he joined forces with Cuba Libre. Now, Pernot finally speaks out.

Pernot acknowledges that business at ¡Pasión! was down. “There were good days, there were bad days,” Pernot recalls. “And business was very slow compared to what it should be, in previous years.”

But Pernot denies that he’s to blame for the restaurant’s demise. “I don’t think ¡Pasión! closed because I was not there,” Pernot said. “There were a lot of very talented people that I left in charge of the restaurant.” According to Pernot, Domkoski’s other explanations make more sense. “Michael also blamed the fact that restaurant closed on a lot of the BYOBs, and the fact that there were a lot less conventions coming into town,” Pernot said.

Teaming up with Cuba Libre is nothing new for Pernot. “I opened Cuba Libre six years ago,” Pernot noted. “I was a consultant chef then.” It seems only natural that Cuba Libre would turn once again to Pernot when it decided to expand the restaurant across the U.S., beyond Philadelphia and Atlantic City (Pernot was tight-lipped on the next location).

“They brought me back as the Executive Concept Chef because they needed something different,” Pernot said. “They needed somebody to take the ship by the wheel and steer them in the right direction.”

The timing was right for Pernot. “I needed to grow, to do something else,” Pernot said. Revitalizing the menu and standardizing the recipes for Cuba Libre’s future locations was just the challenge this two-time winner of The James Beard Award was looking for. “Cuba Libre gave me the opportunity to develop a new style of cooking,” Pernot said.

It’s tempting to conclude that a standardized menu would want for taste and spirit. That may be true of some menus, but not if it's one created by Pernot. When asked how he revised the menu, Pernot says he made it “more exciting” by adding “a lot more layers of flavor.”

Torta de Cangrejo

One of the new dishes Pernot cites to demonstrate his point is the Torta de Cangrejo (which I've had several times over the past couple of months). It's a jumbo lump crab cake over avocado slices in a refreshing gazpacho vinaigrette and topped with a fresh deconstructed gazpacho salad ($15 app/$29 entrée, tasting size pictured). Though crispy from being pan-seared, the crab cake inside is surprisingly light. Much of the richness, instead, comes from the avocado. And the acidity from the gazpacho vinaigrette makes the dish very well-balanced.

Vaca Frita

Pernot also says he introduced new cooking techniques to Cuba Libre’s kitchen. For example, Pernot added the Vaca Frita, an addictive and tender short rib steak (which I've also had several times) that is braised and crisped. It’s served with “Moros y Cristianos,” grilled red onion and pepper salad, and a dense and flavorful red wine sauce ($21, tasting size pictured).

But layering flavors and introducing different cooking techniques are only a means to Pernot’s true passion—satisfying his customers. “It’s what happens that day, that the guest is happy and that you are happy with what just went out,” Pernot said. “It’s all about that, at least for me.”

Cuba Libre
2nd and Market St., Philadelphia
(215) 627-0666

For pics of more items on Cube Libre’s new menu, check out my Cuba Libre set on Flickr.

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September 01, 2007

Philly Mag: Publishing LaBan's Picture Was a Mis-Steak

Philadelphia Magazine made some very tasteful choices in its September 2007 issue. For example, they hired Steve Volk (former senior writer for Philadelphia Weekly whose writing I’ve enjoyed since he worked for Pittsburgh Weekly back in the day), who wrote an engrossing feature about Alex Plotkin’s defamation lawsuit against Craig LaBan. In addition, to fill in for the departing Maria Gallagher they brought in Jason Wilson (spirits columnist for the Washington Post), who wrote two engaging restaurant reviews: Beyond Sushi and Mussel-ing In. Let’s hope they keep him on.

However, there was one decision in this issue that was in bad taste: publishing a picture of Craig LaBan’s face alongside Volk’s article.

To justify this decision, Larry Platt, the editor of Philly Mag, claims that LaBan’s anonymity is a gimmick and that everyone in the restaurant community already knows what he looks like. But the main reason for running the photo, according to Platt, is because he believes the debate about LaBan’s identity smacks of self-importance. “Listen, the guy eats meals and writes about them,” Platt says. “He’s not Valerie Plame, OK?”

Let’s assume for the sake of argument that all of Platt’s assertions are true. Why out LaBan now? Platt admits that he had a long history of extending the Inquirer the courtesy of protecting LaBan’s identity. But Platt’s reasons for outing LaBan didn’t just recently become true; people have been making those same claims for years. In other words, those reasons weren’t enough to out LaBan back then. Why switch gears and end the courtesy now? What changed?

One theory is that the videotaped deposition LaBan was compelled to give in the lawsuit may have created the perception that his days of anonymity were all but over. But, in truth, LaBan’s identity was as protected as ever.

First, the videotaped deposition did not create a threat to LaBan’s anonymity that did not already exist the minute the lawsuit was filed. Plotkin’s lawyer has repeatedly said that he plans to use the video at trial, suggesting that the video is the only way the jury would ever get to see LaBan’s face. But the fact is that if the case were to go to trial, LaBan would be compelled to testify in person. Plotkin’s lawyer meant that he would use the video to impeach LaBan at trial if he says something inconsistent with his deposition. The video deposition was taken far too early in the case for it to be used as a substitute for direct or cross examination at trial.

Second, the judge ordered the videotaped deposition to be kept confidential until trial. When Plotkin noticed LaBan to appear for a videotaped deposition, LaBan moved for a protective order. Although the judge allowed the videotaped deposition to take place, he granted the most important part of LaBan’s motion: the judge ordered Plotkin to keep the videotaped deposition confidential to protect LaBan’s identity. In other words, the judge agreed that LaBan’s identity was worth protecting, despite the fact that Plotkin made arguments similar to the ones Platt is making.

Third, there is little chance that LaBan or that video will ever see the inside of a courtroom. Almost all of the defamation cases brought against restaurant critics were dismissed before trial. Of the few I know of that went to trial, they were either dismissed halfway through or the plaintiffs lost on appeal. Given those stats, if Plotkin’s case isn’t booted on summary judgment (and I predict it will be), it likely will settle before its March 2009 trial date. And if it were to go to trial a year and a half from now, LaBan’s lawyers likely would move to have the courtroom cleared the day LaBan testifies.

When you add it all up, there was no legitimate reason to out LaBan now. All of the reasons Platt gave in his editorial for publishing the picture certainly were true all the while Platt had been extending the courtesy of keeping LaBan’s identity secret. And although LaBan was compelled to give a videotaped deposition, it was clear that LaBan’s identity was as protected as ever and would remain so for the foreseeable future.

All told, though, the damage to LaBan may be minimal. Word on the street is that LaBan lost weight since that pic was taken, so it may not be much of a tell after all. Worst case scenario for LaBan is that he has to wear a disguise when he dines out a la Ruth Reichl.

And in a strange twist of fate, Platt’s transgression may actually help LaBan. In litigation, you identify your opponent’s vulnerabilities and apply pressure. LaBan’s was his anonymity. The videotaped deposition of LaBan was Plotkin’s leverage for settlement. Now that LaBan’s been outed, that leverage is gone.

LaBan knew anonymity wouldn’t last forever. But I’m sure he never thought he might lose it like this—being outed by a peer publication while in the middle of a lawsuit. Here’s hoping LaBan doesn’t hold a grudge.

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August 12, 2007

Street Carts, Duck Parts and New Blog Starts

Matyson's Roasted Spiced Duck Breast

My apologies that posting has been light here recently. That will change. Work has been hectic this summer and I’ve been busy writing for other publications. Here’s a rundown of what I’ve been writing about elsewhere:

Frommers: The folks at Frommers.com recently wrote an article on the World’s Best Street Food. Philadelphia was one of the featured cities. I was quoted in the article and so was my friend Albert Yee of Messy & Picky.

City Paper: A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a Pocket Sommelier column on Matyson. I paired a Sauternes with a seared foie gras dish and a Burgundy with roasted duck breast (picture above). I know I’ve written a lot about foie gras recently. But the motivation for this piece was not the foie; it was the Sauternes. The PLCB does not carry a lot of Sauternes and what they do carry can be pricey. Because the PLCB is closing out the 1999 Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau 1er Cru—which normally retails for around $44—for a mere $29.99, I simply couldn’t pass up the opportunity to write about this pairing. The Burgundy I paired with the duck breast is also a solid find at the Colombus Blvd. store. It’s virtually impossible to find any Old World Pinot Noir on the shelves at the PLCB stores, let alone a drinkable Pinot (Old or New World) under $30. That's why I was pleased to find the 2002 Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre ($26). It doesn’t have all of the delicate finesse of a profound Burgundy, but at least it gets all of the fingerprints right.

WineCHOW: I’ve been quite busy writing the WineCHOW column at ClassiceWines.com. Recently, I’ve written about transfat bans, tips on tipping, celebrity chefs, taking photos of food in restaurants, what it takes to be a restaurant critic, and using cell phones in restaurants. My next WineCHOW column will address how to tell if a wine is corked and what to do if a restaurant serves you one.

Farm to Philly: Mac at pesky’apostrophy decided to host a group blog about finding and eating locally grown/produced food in Philadelphia, its surrounding suburbs and South Jersey. I jumped on board. It’s called Farm to Philly. I’ll be writing mostly about restaurants that source their ingredients from local farmers. Technically, the site has not yet gone live, but we’re already posting like gangbusters. We’ll be issuing a press release when it does go live, so keep your eyes peeled for that. In an upcoming Farm to Philly post, I'll make some kick ass pesto with locally sourced basil (that's right folks: I do cook). And if you're nice, I may even share the recipe with you.

Coming up soon on PhilaFoodie: I’ll profile the new menu at Cuba Libre and Concept Chef Guillermo Pernot finally speaks out on why ¡Pasión! closed. I’ll review Philly’s newest Indian restaurant. And I’ll also address the Rick’s Steaks v. Reading Terminal Market litigation.

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July 28, 2007

Philadelphia Magazine's Best of Philly 2007 - Food & Drink


It’s that time of year again, folks. The time when Philadelphia Magazine dishes on the things it loves the most about Philly. "Essential" and "authoritative," Phily Mag’s “Best Of ” issue is a Philadelphia institution. Editor Larry Platt says it best: "We don’t just try to reflect your world and tell you what you like; instead, we try to influence your world, by spending all year combing the region in order to tell you what you should like.” This year, Philly Mag returns to some of the more basic categories and gives you something extra—a handy little “black book” that you can tear out and take with you anywhere you go, making the 2007 Best Of issue a must read.

Without further ado, here are a few highlights from Philadelphia Magazine’s Best of Philly 2007, Food & Drink:

Osteria's Wood Grilled Halibut with Marinated Fennel

Best New Restaurant, City: Osteria. Given the number of high caliber restaurants that opened this year, this choice could not have been easy for the folks at Philadelphia Magazine. Indeed, April White confesses there was “heated debate” over this category. But I could not agree more with this choice—Osteria captures the authenticity of the Italian dining experience by delivering high quality Italian food in a casual yet polished atmosphere. From the “fine handmade” pastas to the “ethereal” Polenta Budino, there is much to love about Osteria. Check out my Osteria review here.

Snackbar's Beef Gyoza

Best Chef: Jonathan McDonald. Philly Mag likes Snackbar's Johnny Mac for the same reason I do: He’s the MacGyver of the kitchen when it comes to successfully combining seemingly incompatible ingredients. The guy is fearless. Give McDonald any three random ingredients and you can guarantee he’ll rescue your palate from boredom. You can find my Snackbar review here.

James' Cornish Hen

Best Entrée: The Roast Chicken at James. I know what you’re thinking. Chicken? Believe me, I, too, would be scratching my head had I not eaten Chef Burke’s Cornish game hen myself and written about it here. Burke’s secret is to select high quality meats and to cook them slow and low to concentrate the flavors.

Best Indian: Tiffin Store. I’ve taken great pleasure in introducing my friends to Tiffin Store. The downside to having done that, of course, is that it now takes me longer to get my delivery because the place is busier than ever. Quality Indian food at reasonable prices, you say? You better believe it.


Best Food Trend: The Sequel. This year, Philly took a page from Hollywood’s playbook and adapted it to the restaurant scene. Daniel Stern’s “Empire Strikes Back” with Rae. Marc Vetri, Philly’s “Godfather” of Italian cuisine, “pulls [us] back in” with Osteria. And thanks to Tinto, Jose Garces now has “Two Towers” on the Philly tapas scene. Next year’s Best Food Trend? I’m thinking it could be The Trilogy. After a diversion to Chicago to open Mercat later this year (which will feature Barcelonan-style tapas and charcuterie), Garces will come back to Philly to open Chilango, a Mexico City-inspired taqueria that (I kid you not) will pay tribute to Mexican professional wrestlers. Though it sounds more like “Nacho Libre,” if the success of Amada and Tinto are any indication, Chilango will herald the “Return of the King.” Either way, I’m getting my ticket in advance.

Want to know who won the Best Cheesesteak, City category? How about Best New BYOB? Best Pizza? Pick up your own copy of the Best of Philly 2007 edition of Philadelphia Magazine. It hits newsstands on Monday.


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July 26, 2007

University City Dining Days Are Here

University City Dining Days are going on right now—from July 26, 2007 to August 2, 2007.

The University City District has taken the concept of a restaurant week to the next level. Instead of all restaurants offering three courses for one price, it’s three courses and three prices. Each participating restaurant is offering a three course meal at one of the following price levels—$30, $25 and $15. Check out UCityPhila.org for participating restaurants and to find out the price level at which each one is participating.

Also, Marigold Kitchen has extended its three-course $30 Dining Days menu to August 9. (h/t to FooBooz).

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July 18, 2007

Philly Represents on Wine Spectator’s 2007 Restaurant Awards List

Every year Wine Spectator celebrates restaurants that “show passion and commitment when it comes to wine.” This year Wine Spectator awarded the Award of Excellence—an award recognizing lists that have a well-chosen selection of at least 100 wines by quality producers and a thematic match to the cuisine—to four additional Philadelphia restaurants: Flemings Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar (Radnor), Fogo de Chao (1337 Chestnut), Le Castagne (1920 Chestnut) and The Melting Pot (King of Prussia). A run-down of most of the past Philly winners can be found here.

But New Jersey seems to have kicked our cork. Seven additional New Jersey restaurants earned the Award of Excellence this year: Bacchus Chophouse & Wine Bar (Fairfield), Basil T’s Brewery & Italian Grill (Red Bank), Bobby Flay Steak (Borgata, Atlantic City), Buona Sera (Red Bank), Hunan Taste (Denville), and Mahogany Grille (Manasquan) and The Melting Pot (Westwood). Not only that, but two past New Jersey Award of Excellence winners—Chakra (Paramus) and Old Homestead (Borgata, Atlantic City)—were upgraded to “Best Award of Excellence,” which recognizes lists of 500 or more wines that show either vintage depth or excellent breadth spread over several winegrowing regions.

Hey, for what it's worth, at least we beat Delaware; they didn’t have any new additions or upgrades this year.

Congratulations to this year's winners.

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June 18, 2007

An Update on the Chops v. LaBan Lawsuit

There have been two significant developments in the Chops v. LaBan lawsuit. The first is that The Philadelphia Inquirer and Craig LaBan have filed an answer, which strikes a serious blow at Plotkin’s claims. The second is that Plotkin’s attorneys took LaBan’s deposition…and videotaped it.

The Answer

The assertions in the Inquirer and LaBan’s answer—one of which Plotkin now admits is true—do not bode well for Plotkin.

LaBan denies that he was served a “steak sandwich without the bread,” as Plotkin alleged in the complaint. Rather, LaBan asserts that he was served “Steak Frites.” And LaBan has the receipt to prove it. LaBan further alleges that “[t]he waiter serving LaBan and his lunch companion described the steak served as ‘Steak Frites’ as a ‘strip steak.’” Presumably, LaBan dines with others so he can taste multiple dishes in one sitting. But the ancillary benefit of having done so here is that LaBan now has a corroborating witness, illustrating that this practice is something other food writers leery of libel suits would be wise to employ. Moreover, LaBan states that “the steak Chops served as ‘Steak Frites’ was sliced from the same piece of meat purchased by the restaurant for the strip steak it serves at dinner as strip steak.” It is not clear from the answer how LaBan knows this; however, it is important to note that this assertion does not start off with the phrase “Upon information and belief…”—a somewhat tepid predicate often used to hedge your bets when you’re not 100%.

Surprisingly, Plotkin has recanted his “steak sandwich without the bread” story and now admits that LaBan ordered and ate “Steak Frites,” a fact that probably should have been discovered before the complaint was filed given that it’s the basis of his lawsuit. Although Plotkin denies the rest of the above-mentioned assertions, this could signal the beginning of the end of his lawsuit. It appears from the pleadings that, at a minimum, LaBan believed that the meat he was eating was strip steak. And if that’s what LaBan believed, Plotkin will not be able to prove “actual malice”—the intent requirement in a libel claim asserted by a public figure, which is what Chops will most likely be held to be. Keep in mind that the “actual malice” standard is subjective, not objective. In other words, it doesn’t matter what a reasonable person would have believed; it only matters what LaBan actually believed. The hurdle for Plotkin is extremely high.

The Deposition

The second development in the case, however—which Steve Volk wrote about today online at Philadelphia Weekly—is a little more sensational. And it shows that this lawsuit may end up being less about truth than about strategy. Plotkin recently noticed LaBan’s deposition, which is a bit early in the case but not improper. But instead of seeking the more traditional type of deposition, where only the deponent’s words are stenographically recorded, Plotkin wanted the deposition to be videotaped.

The defendants sought a protective order to prevent it. “LaBan’s anonymity is important to the process by which he reviews restaurants,” the defendants argued to the court. “If a restaurant knew Mr. LaBan was in its dining room, it might put on a show for him that would not be provided to the general dining public.”

In opposing the defendants’ motion, Plotkin denied that LaBan’s identity was a secret by stating the following:

Defendant LaBan has not only appeared in public recently to promote a book he wrote on behalf of co-defendant The Philadelphia Inquirer, he even permitted another journalist on a widely-read Philadelphia restaurant review website to publicize a photograph of half his face. Anyone with an interest in the “trade secret” of his identity certainly would have attended his book signing, seen his face, listened to his voice, and studied the photo available online.

The journalist to whom Plotkin is referring is yours truly (at least I wasn’t called a “sham blogger”). The website to which he’s referring is this one. And the photograph to which he’s referring is the one LaBan allowed me to shoot at his book signing in December 2006 and post on my blog.

First, I was not happy to discover that I was referenced in a document filed in this lawsuit (though I appreciate that Plotkin and/or his attorneys extended the professional courtesy of not identifying me or my blog by name). Second, my photograph technically does not show half of LaBan’s face; it shows only his lips and his goatee. And to put it in context, my photograph shows less of LaBan’s face than you see in his recently-shot video, “Cheeseburger, I Hold,” or the screenshot accompanying his article about the making of the video (pictured above). Third, contrary to Plotkin’s assertion, the photograph actually demonstrates (as does the video) that LaBan and the Inquirer, in fact, do take great care to protect LaBan’s identity. LaBan showed up at the book signing wearing a hooded cape, a curly wig and a Zorro mask, and he wears the same wig and mask in the video. Wearing a disguise is exactly how you protect your identity, not how you reveal it.

The court technically granted the defendants’ request in part, but denied the most critical aspect of their motion. The judge’s order allows LaBan’s deposition to be videotaped. And although the video will be kept confidential until trial, the order does not prohibit the video from being played at the trial, which could threaten LaBan’s anonymity if the entire proceeding is left open to the public.

In Volk’s article, Plotkin’s attorney says that the videotaped deposition took place on June 5 and that they expect to use it at trial. Plotkin’s attorney claims that the case isn’t about LaBan’s anonymity (though it does play a key role in his complaint as LaBan’s alleged motive for his less than stellar review). Rather, Plotkin’s attorney claims their “interest is in what [LaBan] did wrong and in encouraging him not to do it again.”

However, to the trained or skeptical eye Plotkin’s insistence on videotaping LaBan’s deposition looks like a strategic move designed to leverage a settlement, especially given LaBan’s devastating answer. Videotaped depositions are not all that common, and the need for one in a case like this is questionable (there’s nothing to suggest, for example, that LaBan would be unavailable for trial). Plotkin knows that anonymity is a vulnerable spot for LaBan. So, it’s not surprising that Plotkin’s attorney is attempting to apply some pressure; it’s what lawyers do. But in light of the discussion above and Plotkin’s own admission in his complaint that he previously threatened (“jokingly,” of course) to reveal LaBan’s identity when he visited The Palm in 2002, Plotkin’s insistence on videotaping LaBan’s deposition just leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

Actually, all of this is good news for LaBan. Plotkin’s whole lawsuit was based on LaBan having a steak sandwich without the bread. And LaBan chopped one of his legs off with two words: Steak Frites. If the rest of the above-mentioned assertions in LaBan’s answer are verified through discovery, the game is over for Plotkin. The fact that Plotkin had to play the video deposition card shows that he’s on the ropes. And although it’s troubling that the tape is out there, it’s unlikely that it will ever see the light of day.

Photo Credit: A still from the video of Craig LaBan recording "Cheeseburger, I Hold." Video shot by Chris Jolissaint.

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May 31, 2007

The Status of Direct Wine Shipping in Pennsylvania

In November 2005, the Pennsylvania law that allowed in-state wineries to ship wine to Pennsylvania residents but prohibited out-of-state wineries from doing so was declared unconstitutional. Last June, Governor Rendell proposed legislation that would allow Pennsylvania consumers to have wine shipped directly to their doors from out-of-state wineries (which I blogged about here). As part of Rendell’s proposal, the wineries would be required collect PA’s 18% Emergency Tax (a/k/a/ the “Johnstown Flood Tax”).

Ever wonder what happened to Rendell’s proposal? The PA legislature put it on the back burner. An article in today’s Pittsburgh Post-Gazette explains why:


Because the buyers of Pennsylvania wines make up such a minority of overall wine consumers, and account for such a small percentage of the state’s wine and spirits business, the issue isn't on the front burner in Harrisburg.

Instead, the respective House and Senate committees -- the Liquor Control Committee in the House, and the Law and Justice Committee in the Senate -- are dealing with beer-related issues: whether Sheetz and other convenience stores and supermarkets can sell beer to go, and whether distributors can sell 18-packs.



The PA legislature is clearly a few bottles shy of a case on the direct shipping issue. This proposed law isn’t about Pennsylvania wines or those who buy them. It’s about making sure the state can collect the 18% Johnstown Flood Tax on non-Pennsylvania wine that is purchased through the Internet and shipped into PA. What’s even more bizarre is that the legislature appears to be oblivious to the fact that these Internet wine sales are happening right now. That’s right—currently, there are Internet sites out there that will sell you wine and ship it directly to your door in PA. So, while the legislators wrestle with the heady issue of whether PA’s archaic liquor laws will allow WaWa to sell a six of Bud, the state is hemorrhaging money in lost taxes as its residents take advantage of wine deals on the Internet.

Not having to pay the Johnstown Flood Tax when they order wine over the Internet sounds like great deal for PA consumers. But if getting burned on lost revenue isn’t enough to convince the legislature to move this issue to the “front burner,” perhaps they should no longer be allowed to operate the stove.

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May 13, 2007

Philly Restaurants Are Going to the Dogs

Max
I’ve been looking for an excuse to post a picture of our dog on this blog for quite some time (his name is Max and he’s a Norwegian Elkhound, in case you were wondering). And thanks to Joe Sixpack and his Daily News article about bars that allow dogs in their outside seating areas, I finally have that excuse. (h/t to FooBooz and MenuPages Blog)

Joe Sixpack found eight Philly-area restaurants with outdoor seating that allow you to enjoy a brew with Man’s best friend:

• Le Bus, 4266 Main St., Manayunk.
• London Grill, 2301 Fairmount Ave., Fairmount.
• White Dog Cafe, 3420 Sansom St., University City.
• Bliss, 224 S. Broad St., Center City.
• Caribou Cafe, 1126 Walnut St., Washington Square West.
• Newportville Inn, 4120 Lower Road, Newportville, Bucks County.
• Triumph Brewing, 400 Union Square, New Hope, Bucks County.
• Four Dogs Tavern, 1300 Strasburg Road, West Chester, Chester County.

A newly-opened restaurant in Rittenhouse Square, Tavern 17, takes it one step further. In addition to offering dog-friendly outdoor dining, Tavern 17 has unveiled a special menu of Canine Delights for your pooch.

Sadly, because our dog is a teetotaler and can be a handful when there’s food around, it’s unlikely that I’ll allow him to join us at any of these places.

Kitty

However, if you know of any restaurants that allow cats, please let me know—my cat is a well-behaved lush with an affinity for Chardonnay. (Don’t worry folks. I’m just kidding; the little snob refuses to drink anything but CATeauneuf-du-Pape.)

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April 12, 2007

City Paper Article on The Wine School of Philadelphia

If you’ve read my profile recently, you know I’ve been taking classes at The Wine School of Philadelphia, which was founded by Keith Wallace.

The classes have been validating in a lot of ways; the analytical way I have been approaching and deconstructing wine is directly in line with the school’s philosophy. At the same time, though, Keith and his colleague, Brian Freedman, have taught me so many new things. As a result, the course has been profoundly empowering—I’ve learned to identify characteristics about a wine from just one sip that I never thought were possible, things that highly-paid sommeliers can’t identify. It’s scary, actually. The funny thing is that you could do it too. It’s not supernatural. In fact, it’s imminently teachable.

When the City Paper put out the call for freelance writers, I pitched a piece on The Wine School of Philadelphia and they liked it. The article I wrote appears in this week’s issue of the City Paper.

In addition to the Foundation Program I wrote about, The Wine School also offers individual classes that are rooted in the same sensory-based philosophy for as low as $37.99. In Wine 101, for example, they cover the nine basic varietals and dispel popular myths about wine, including the sulfite myth and the belief that you need a different glass for each type of wine.

Also, please check out this week's Small Bites section of City Paper. I profile the Argiolas 2005 Costamolino Vermentino. The creaminess I describe is the result of a process known as partial malolactic fermentation, which I was able to identify instinctively thanks to the skills I learned from Keith and Brian.

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March 09, 2007

PhilaFoodie Interviewed by WHYY's Marty Moss-Coane on Radio Times

I was invited to participate in a radio segment today regarding the power of restaurant reviews on WHYY’s Radio Times hosted by Marty Moss-Coane. Recently, restaurants have been making news by fighting the critics who gave them unflattering reviews: the spat between Kobe Club owner Jeffrey Chodorow and New York Times reviewer Frank Bruni, an Ireland court’s verdict against a restaurant critic for libel (apparently one of the first of its kind), and of course the t-bone of contention between Chops Restaurant and Philly’s own Craig LaBan. Marty thought it would be fun to explore with me some of the general legal issues regarding libel as they pertain to restaurant reviews, so that’s what we did.

For those interested in listening to the podcast, here are the links: MP3 and Real Player.

The first caller was a little BENT-up about a review that HAMMERED his restaurant several years ago. Marty eventually PRIED out of him the POINT the critic had made in the review that ended up being too much for his restaurant to HANDLE: believe me, it’s a NAIL-biter.

In retrospect, I think this was a prank caller. While nobody likes to be the target of such a prank, you've got to give the guy props for executing it without being caught in the act, which, presumably, is the goal. Well done, sir.

Many thanks to Marty and her wonderful and talented staff for inviting me onto the show and for being so welcoming and gracious while I was there.

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March 07, 2007

The Washington Post Covers the Philadelphia BYOB Scene

Jason Wilson wrote a vivid and informative article about the Philadelphia BYOB scene, which appears in today’s Washington Post. (SeePhiladelphia’s BYO Revolution”) (registration required).

I'm quoted in this article as well. Jason even published my intuitive little BYOB tip in the sidebar: check the restaurant’s menu before you pick your wine and don’t be afraid to bring a variety of bottles.

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