May 15, 2008

What Does Chicago's Repeal of the Foie Gras Ban Mean for Philly?

Zinc's Poached Foie Gras

Yesterday, by an overwhelming vote of 37-6, the Chicago City Council repealed its ban on the sale of foie gras. The ban has been a source of embarrassment for the city since it was passed in April 2006.

Philadelphia City Councilman Jack Kelly proposed a similar ban shortly after the now-repealed Chicago ban was passed. Kelly’s bill never made it out of the Committee for Licenses and Inspections. After narrowly wining re-election last fall, Kelly promised to lobby the newly-elected councilmen in January to support his bill. However, it is now halfway through May, Kelly’s bill has officially lapsed and we haven’t heard so much as a peep from Kelly.

The lack of legislative progress has not deterred Hugs for Puppies, the local activist group that has been spearheading protests in front of restaurants that serve foie gras. The group’s questionable protesting tactics essentially have resulted in a de facto foie gras ban in Philly. With the exception of Le Bec-Fin’s Georges Perrier, the Philly restaurant scene’s more vocal supporters, like Ansill's Chef David Ansill, have taken foie gras off the menu for business reasons. Even London Grill’s Terry McNally, Philly’s foie gras poster woman, appears to have caved (a recent visit revealed that only the hanger steak with foie gras butter remains).

Chicago’s repeal is important for Philly because, among other things, it undercuts an argument on which activists have strongly relied to make their case for banning foie gras: Because other legislative bodies have banned foie gras, Philly should ban it, too.

This follow-the-crowd argument has always been flawed. The implication that one need only get in line and follow what others have done without independent scrutiny is inherently troubling. The argument also assumes, of course, that none of the bans were the product of activists’ bullying. [Ironically, the activist group Farm Sanctuary is claiming that Chicago’s repeal was caused by “pressure from political bullies and special interests.”] Plus, there’s never any mention of the fact that the numerous legislative bans proposed in the U.S. since Chicago’s ban was passed have either failed (e.g., Maryland) or have been buried somewhere in the legislative process to die a slow, quiet death.

But now the follow-the-crowd argument has lost its teeth. Chicago was critically important to the activists—it was the first and only U.S. city to ban foie gras and, they maintained, it legitimized a path for other cities to follow. However, after enduring two years of ridicule and now repealing the ban in a loud, lopsided, public display, Chicago now stands for something completely different—the foie gras ban was a mistake. California passed a ban four years ago that doesn't become effective until 2012. However, after the more recent brouhaha in Chicago it’s unlikely that any U.S. city will ban foie gras now. More broadly, Chicago’s repeal also renews the debate as to whether it’s appropriate for local government to legislate what we put on our plate, at least in cases where there is no legitimate public interest to protect.

Chicago’s repeal should be the death knell for any proposed foie gras ban in Philly. Time will tell. But the real question isn’t whether Philly’s proposed ban (now lapsed) will officially be declared dead. The real question is: If it is declared dead, will the activists gracefully walk off the field and let us eat in peace?

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April 29, 2008

Local Bytes

• The Third Annual Eight Days of Eats event kicks off tonight at Headhouse Square Market from 7:00pm to 9:00pm. Restaurants participating in the South Street Headhouse Area festival and sponsors will be offering food and refreshments. Donations go to the Historic Trust Conservancy.

• Tinto and Rae were just named to Condé Nast Traveler’s 12th Annual Hot List. From the Condé Nast Traveler’s website: “Our team of roving epicures visited 32 countries—from Chile to the Czech Republic, Thailand to Tunisia—to track down the world's most exciting new restaurants. Hundreds of meals later, 105 made the cut.” Tinto’s Jose Garces is celebrating by introducing Sunday Brunch starting this Sunday (10:00am-3:00pm). A la carte items range from $8 to $14 and include Revuelto de Hongos (shirred eggs with porcini and royal trumpet mushrooms, parmesan espuma and truffle butter) and cocktails such as the Pamplona (celery vodka, spiced tomato, citrus and beef consommé).

• On Thursday, May 1, Chef Felix S. Maietta and Theresa Fera-Maietta (The Down Town Club) will open the much anticipated Union Gourmet Market & Cafe at 1113 Locust Street on the ground floor of the Western Union Telegraph Building. Union Gourmet aims to be a quality alternative to take-out, offering fresh-made soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, house-baked pastries and breads, an antipasto bar and entrees.

• There’s still time to get tickets for the Seventh Annual Philadelphia Wine Festival being held at the PA Convention Center on Saturday, May 10. Tickets are $125 for the Grand Tasting/General Admission (6:30pm-9:00pm), and $225 for the VIP Tasting/Early Entry (5:30pm-9:00pm). Tickets can be purchased online.

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April 19, 2008

Tipping Point

Voltaire said we should judge others by the questions they ask rather than by the answers they give. This post illustrates why such wisdom rings true.

On Feb. 24, someone posted a comment in the restaurant section of City Paper’s website claiming that Arbol Café was confiscating the servers’ tips. This sparked a tremendous amount of outrage directed toward Arbol Café. Dozens of people chimed in on City Paper’s site, and on other local web sites, with heated opinions on the topic. Some claimed they would boycott the restaurant. Someone even posted claiming to be the owners of Arbol Café. It generated so much controversy that the Consumerist picked up the story.

My editor at City Paper, Drew Lazor, had a radical idea: he thought it would be interesting to find out whether the allegation leveled against Arbol Café was actually true. Turns out, it was not true. You can read the results of Drew’s investigation here. Briefly, Arbol Café keeps the servers’ tips only during training, which consists of three shifts. The irony of this whole thing is that Arbol Café appears to treat its servers far better than other restaurants because it pays its servers a base salary above minimum wage and then throws the tips on top of it.

Before Drew discovered the truth, he asked me to do a legal analysis as to whether the alleged practice was legal. You can read my analysis here. In short, under Federal and PA labor law, the alleged practice would be legal if there was an agreement in place between the servers and the restaurant and if the restaurant paid the servers a base salary above minimum wage. Practically speaking, though, I don’t know if any server ever would agree to surrender all of his or her tips.

Kudos to Drew for getting to the bottom of the controversy and also to FooBooz for throwing a healthy dash of skepticism on the issue.

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April 02, 2008

An Update on Direct Wine Shipment in PA

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2003

I wrote an article on direct wine shipment that appears in this week’s City Paper. Forgive the Madonna reference; it’s called “Over the Border Wine.”

The article explores whether it’s still illegal to have wine shipped to your door under Pennsylvania law. The reason this is an open question is because two court cases rendered Pennsylvania’s existing statutory scheme unconstitutional. And the Pennsylvania legislature has yet to clean up the mess.

Rep. Paul Costa and Sen. Jim Ferlo were kind and gracious enough to speak to me about the direct shipment bills they proposed that are currently pending in the state legislature. Tom Wark, Executive Director of the Specialty Wine Retailers Association, gave his insight on the issues raised by direct shipment legislation. Tom also writes one of the most insightful and thought-provoking wine blogs out there—Fermentation. The PLCB and the PA State Police's Bureau of Liquor Control Enforcement went above and beyond in responding to my questions. Finally, special thanks to Gary Vaynerchuk, Director of Operations at Wine Library and host of Wine Library TV, for throwing in his two cents. Gary sympathizes with Pennsylvania wine drinkers. “What PA residents are going through is so sad,” Gary says. “I get over 50 emails a week from PA residents crying, including one that moved to South Jersey just because of it!”

And that’s one important piece of the puzzle that’s often overlooked—retailers. At the end of the day, what wine lovers in Pennsylvania really want is the ability to order wine from Internet retailers, not out-of-state wineries. The reason is obvious: choice. Internet retailers offer hundreds or even thousands wines from numerous wineries located all over the world. And contrary to the belief held by some well-intentioned folks in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania’s statutory scheme currently leaves Internet retailers out in the cold.

The case law I reference above only talks about wineries. But recently a federal court in Texas held that in-state and out-of-state retailers have to be treated equally as well. In PA, however, there is only one in-state retailer—the PLCB. And the PLCB doesn’t deliver wines to peoples’ doors. That is, at least not yet. If Rep. Costa’s bill passes as is—which would allow the PLCB to deliver wine to your door—they may have no choice but to let Gary and other Internet wine retailers do the same.

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February 10, 2008

Plate Profile – Tinto’s Sopa de Castaño

Sopa de Castaño

It’s time for another Plate Profile—a feature designed to highlight a dish being served in a Philadelphia restaurant that you need to try.

The chill of winter begs for hearty bowl of soup. And restaurants all over Philadelphia have been doing their part this season to create interesting versions of our favorite comfort classics such as butternut squash and carrot soups.

But the one soup that should not be missed this winter is Tinto’s Sopa de Castaño, a truffled chestnut soup ($12). What makes this soup so special is that it delivers intricate structure without tasting busy or out of balance.

The sweet, velvety soup is poured around a pillow of savory duck and mushroom hash that’s crowned with a fried quail egg. The hash’s chewy royal trumpet mushrooms parallel a delicate whisper of truffle oil to provide deep layers of woodsy and earthy goodness. Flecks of pistachio add texture while simultaneously echoing the soup’s nutty core. So intense, sinfully rich and satisfying on a primal level—one bowl of this soup will make even the most faithful man or woman feel like they just cheated on their spouse.

The wine you’ll want to pair with this decadent delight is the Domaine Brana Irouléguy Ohitza ($13/glass), a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Smokey with dark fruit flavors and notably round for the typically angular varietals at play, this medium-bodied wine has the weight to stand up to this powerful soup. At the same time, its woody tannins not only cut through the soup’s richness but also seemlessly blend with its earthy texture. The Ohitza also boasts a remarkable current of acidity that elevates the soup’s flavor.

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January 23, 2008

Agar-a-phobia?

Agar RS-100 Powder

In my latest City Paper article, Foam Over Function, I explore why Philadelphia doesn’t “get” molecular gastronomy (some chefs I spoke with prefer the term “modern” or “forward” cooking). In writing the article, I managed to score an interview with Chef Grant Achatz of Alinea in Chicago. According to Achatz, he was “the first one in the U.S. to start cooking in this style” when he was at Trio in Evanston, Illinois.

It’s tempting to ask whether a restaurant like Alinea or Wylie Dufresne’s WD-50 in New York would ever work in Philadelphia. But, in many ways, that question misses the point.

The truth is that Philadelphia chefs are already using the techniques and structural ingredients associated with forward cooking in “regular-looking” dishes right under our noses. They’re just not advertising it. One person I spoke with at a certain Philadelphia restaurant (which will remain nameless) admitted that they use one particular modern cooking technique, but the person said they "don’t want to be known for that.”

According to Shola Olunloyo of Studio Kitchen, “You can either do or talk about doing. And sometimes you just need to do. I like to be transparent and let the food speak for itself, as opposed to selling the technique before I sell the flavor.”

In some ways, there is no such thing as “molecular gastronomy.” Rather, there is only good cooking and bad cooking. These modern techniques and structural ingredients are simply additional tools in the culinary toolbox. Some may disagree, of course. But the one thing on which everyone seems to agree is that, regardless of technique, the food has to taste good. Perhaps that's all that really matters in the end.

For those Philadelphians who remain skeptical of this new cookery, Achatz has some advice: “They shouldn’t be afraid of it,” Achatz said. “Just sit back and enjoy the ride.”

There is a slideshow online that accompanies my City Paper article. For even more pics of my kitchen experience at Snackbar with Chef Jonathan McDonald check out my Snackbar Set on Flickr. And for more pics of my experience at Lacroix’s Chef’s Table with Chef Matthew Levin (not all of which was molecular), check out my Lacroix Set.

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January 12, 2008

Congratulations Deborah

Menu for Hope

Deborah Szajngarten, writer of the blog The Culinary Adventures of Deb Szajngarten, won the two-class gift certificate to The Wine School of Philadelphia that I donated to Menu for Hope.

Many thanks to Chez Pim for organizing the charity event, to Serious Eats for being the East Coast host, and to everyone who participated. The raffle raised $91,188 this year.

Close to home, I would like to thank April White of Philadelphia Magazine, Mac & Cheese and David McDuff of McDuff’s Food and Wine Trail for plugging my prize. David, whom I met last night at the second Philly Food Blogger Potluck, offered a spectacular prize himself—his private sommelier services and wine for the night.

Again, congratulations Deborah. Looking forward to seeing you in class.

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January 09, 2008

Livin' La Vida Locavore

Focaccia with Local Cherry Tomatoes

Because “locavore” was named 2007’s word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary, I thought it would be fun to research and write an article about the history of Philadelphia’s local food system and how Philadelphia has become a model for other communities around the country. The article is called Cult of Seasonality and you can find it in this week’s City Paper.

Philadelphia’s local food system is more advanced than you may think. For example, in researching the article I learned about a unique business called Farm Fresh Express—which, in some ways, is a more flexible alternative to CSAs. First, there's no commitment. Second, they have a wide variety of choices each week because co-owners Mary Ann Flaherty and Pam Nelson source from many local farms and other local food purveyors. Third, they offer the flexibility to order in any quantity you choose. Fourth, they will even have the food delivered straight to your door, even in Center City, for a mere $10 delivery fee. According to Flaherty, “Some of our customers have told us that they’ve basically stopped going to the grocery store except for toilet paper.”

Photo from James's Buy Fresh Buy Local Happy Hour, July 2007.

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January 07, 2008

Dock Street Brewery

Dock Street

If you’re like most people, you believe that restaurants live or die on the merits. You believe that if a restaurant has great service and makes great food, it will succeed. And that if its service is poor and its food is mediocre, it will fail. After all, that’s how the marketplace is supposed to work, right?

But every once in a while a restaurant defies this model. Much like the creatures that lumber over the rocks of the Galápagos Islands, sometimes a restaurant is isolated from the process of natural selection that otherwise would (or should?) cause it to become extinct.

Dock Street Brewery is one of those restaurants.

Rosemarie Certo and her husband founded Dock Street Brewery in 1985. Five years later, they opened a brewpub and rode the crest of the microwbrew trend to nationwide popularity. After selling the business in 1998, they repurchased the bottling division and the brand in 2002. The brewpub, operated by other owners, closed in 2002. Last fall, Certo decided to give the brewpub another go in a former firehouse in West Philly.

Dock Street

The décor of the reborn brewpub aims for a hip minimalism, one that’s characteristic of the mostly post-grad crowd it tends to draw. However, the result—raw concrete floors, dim lighting, and lawn furniture mismatched with chairs from Target—is less than welcoming.

Flammenkuche Pizza

But Dock Street’s issues are more fundamental than décor. First, the service is inconsistent. On one visit the service was well-paced and efficient. On another, though, it was an obscene train wreck. Inexcusably, it took over an hour and a half for the food to arrive after ordering. Often you can tell whether blame lies with the servers or the kitchen. Here it was both. The food was hot when it finally came out, indicating that the kitchen was at fault for the delay. And we’re not talking complicated entrées here—it’s pizza. At the same time, the servers were mysteriously absent for long periods of time while dirty plates were stacked high on several adjacent tables—a makeshift SOS by stranded diners.

Provencal Pizza

Second, contrary to the early hype, the pizza is nothing to crow about. The pizzas may sound compelling on the menu, but most fall short of expectations. The sweetness you expect from the layer of fig jam on the Fig Jam Pizza, for example, is virtually undetectable, overshadowed by bacon. The pizza isn't the only letdown. The signature Dock Street Beer Battered Fish & Chips also misses the mark—the batter was thin and the fish itself was bland. Not everything is disappointing. The Flammenkuche Pizza is worth repeating; its sweet caramelized onions and bacon balance nicely with its crème fraîche and gruyère. And although the leeks were overcooked, the French Fry Trio makes a half decent bar snack.

Dock Street Beer Sampler

Most of last fall’s drafts tasted like beer with training wheels. Light on hops and heavy on malt, they were ideal for people who normally don’t like beer. The Imperial Stoudt, for example, made with organic fair trade espresso beans, was a fun pour. But it belonged on a breakfast table not a bar. However, Dock Street’s first brewmaster recently left, and Eric Savage, Dock Street’s original brewmaster, is now consulting. This change should be a good thing.

Vegan Chocolate Cake

Despite its shortcomings, Dock Street may survive. Poor service and mediocre food would doom a restaurant in Center City. But, as they say, it’s all about location. And a built in market. West Philly needs Dock Street. The restaurant brings energy to a struggling neighborhood, and the locals show their appreciation by returning night after night. Dock Street also has a menu that caters to vegetarians and vegans, segments of the dining population that are often ignored by restaurants.

For now, Dock Street looks like a creature that isn’t supposed to exist. But given enough time, who knows, maybe it will evolve.

Dock Street Brewery
701 South 50th Street
(215) 726-2337

For more pics, check out my Dock Street Set on Flickr.

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December 23, 2007

Philly Uncorked

Corks
Philly.com has teamed up with The Wine School of Philadelphia to bring you Philly Uncorked—an informative and entertaining wine video program. The first episode is about Chianti. Wine School professionals Keith Wallace and Maria Valeta teach us about this region and the wine it produces, give us a range of winning picks and describe a perfect food pairing. Keith also shares a very technical term of art that’s used to describe unappealing wines. Watch the video here.

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December 10, 2007

Menu for Hope 4

Menu for Hope

Menu for Hope is an annual charity fundraiser organized by Pim Techamuanvivit, author of Chez Pim, the most respected food blog on the Internet. Five years ago, the devastating tsunami in Southeast Asia inspired Pim to find a way to help, and the first Menu for Hope was born. The campaign has since become a yearly affair, raising funds to support worthy causes worldwide. In 2006, Menu for Hope raised $62,925 to help the UN World Food Programme feed the hungry. This year, the money will again go to the U.N.'s World Food Programme.

For two weeks every December, food bloggers from all over the world join the campaign by offering a delectable array of food-related prizes for the Menu for Hope raffle. Anyone can buy raffle tickets to bid on these prizes. For every $10 donated, entrants earn one virtual raffle ticket to bid on a prize of their choice. At the end of the two-week campaign, the raffle tickets are drawn and the results announced on Chez Pim.

To support this cause, I have submitted “Two Class Gift Certificate” to be used at The Wine School of Philadelphia, which was generously donated by the school. Valued at $100, this certificate is enough for two seats to most wine classes offered at the school. You can take two classes yourself, or you and a friend can attend one class together. Even better, you can use this gift certificate for anything that the school offers, including custom-made crystal glassware. The Prize Code for this gift certificate is UE42.

If you’re interested in bidding on this prize or any of the other prizes being offered, here’s what you need to do:

1. Choose a prize or prizes from the Menu for Hope at http://www.chezpim.com/blogs/2007/12/menu-for-hope-4.html You can also visit Serious Eats, which is acting as the host for all of the prizes being offered in the East Coast region: http://www.seriouseats.com/required_eating/2007/12/menu-for-hope-4-east-coast-prize-list.html

2. Go to the donation site at http://www.firstgiving.com/menuforhope4 and follow the instructions to make a donation. Make sure to use the Prize Code of the item on which you’re bidding. If you’re bidding on the Wine School of Philadelphia gift certificate, the Prize Code is UE42.

3. Check back on Chez Pim on Wednesday, January 9, 2008 for the results of the raffle.

Good luck and thank you for your support.

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December 09, 2007

That's Professor "Wine Snob" to You, Pal

The Wine School of Philadelphia

In Taste, its 2007 dining guide, Philadelphia Weekly said I am “one of the biggest wine snobs you’ll ever meet, and you’ll be glad you found your way into his sommelier presence.”

Now, it will be easier for you to find your way into my “sommelier presence.” I am now an instructor at The Wine School of Philadelphia.

But those looking for snobbery will be disappointed. Much like the wine writing on my blog, the classes I’ll be teaching at the Wine School are designed to demystify wine and make it more accessible to the masses. The school offers classes at two locations: its main location at 2006 Fairmount Ave. and at its newly-opened satellite classroom at Pinot Boutique, located in Old City at 227 Market St. Sign up for a class here.

Tomorrow I’ll tell you about a special opportunity to win a gift certificate good for two classes at the Wine School.

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December 06, 2007

What's Good for the Goose is Good for the Gander

The Ducks Drink

In his Inqlings column yesterday, Michael Klein reported that Hugs for Puppies (“HFP”) and Professionals Against Foie Gras are hosting a “No Foie Gras Gala” this Saturday at 6 p.m. at the Ethical Society on Rittenhouse Square. HFP has become infamous for protesting restaurants that serve foie gras, and its tactics have been disturbing enough to convince courts to issue two injunctions against the group.

But, as Klein reported, this time the shoe is on the other foot. In a karmic twist of fate, a group of people who support foie gras plan to protest HFP's gala.

I learned that the pro-foie gras protest is being spearheaded by Terry McNally, co-owner of the London Grill—one of the few restaurants to stand up to HFP. McNally said that, unlike some of the people who protested her restaurant, she isn’t interested in acting crazy. “I don’t actually want to ‘protest’ as much as wanting to be there [to share] correct information,” McNally said via email. According to McNally, the protest begins at 5:30 p.m.

But McNally and her supporters may not be the only ones who will be there. Turns out that a film crew from France is in the country filming a documentary about foie gras for French TV. My source tells me that the film crew may make a detour to Philly on Saturday evening to film the gala protest.

And if that wasn’t enough foie gras redux (re-ducks?) for you, check out this article in the recent issue of Esquire by John Mariani called “The Truth About Foie Gras.” Mariani visited Hudson Valley Foie Gras recently and he came to the same conclusion I did.

UPDATE: I just confirmed directly with Lacroix that Chef Matthew Levin will be serving the pro-foie gras protestors free canapés, including medallions of foie gras. Sounds like the protestors may end up eating better fare than the gala attendees.

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November 21, 2007

Thanksgiving Wine Pairings in a Pinch

We all celebrate Thanksgiving in different ways and with different foods. But the one thing that’s guaranteed to be on almost every table this holiday is wine.

The PLCB created a wine pairing chart to help with your wine selection.

PLCB Thanksgiving Wine Chart

Although the chart is helpful in identifying which varietals will work with your meal, it doesn’t recommend specific wines.

If you’re like most people, you’ve put off your Thanksgiving wine purchases until the last minute. And when you finally arrive at the PLCB store, you probably won’t have time to browse the aisles let alone decode a chart.

You need specific recommendations and you need them fast. Look no further.

The Standards: The three wines you can count on to go with your Thanksgiving meal are Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Beaujolais Nouveau. Here are some suggestions on what to pick, all of which are available at the 12th St. PLCB store:

Pierre Sparr Riesling and Gewurztraminer

2006 Pierre Sparr Riesling Reserve (PLCB No. 22105, $14.99). A well-balanced Riesling; not a cloyingly sweet sugar-bomb. Bone dry, as Alsatian Riesling should be. Apples, pears, steely acids and a hint of spice on the finish.

2005 Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer (PLCB No. 21762, $12.99). Low acids and glycerol give this medium-bodied wine its characteristic sweetness. Lychee, grapefruit and dried apricots on the nose. Similar flavors on the palate, and a touch of spice at the end.

Beaujolais Nouveau

2007 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau (PLCB No. 5877, $11.99) and 2007 Leonard de St.-Aubin Beaujolais Nouveau (PLCB No. 8998, $11.99). You expect Beaujolais Nouveau to be fruit forward. This year’s crop is different. The fruit is incredibly subdued, which exposes more of the wine’s acidity. And that’s not necessarily a good thing in such a light-bodied red. You’re left with unripe sour cherry, tart cranberry, somewhat bitter undertones and an almost slightly medicinal aroma. This is true of both of the Beaujolais Nouveau. I’d pass on the Beaujolais Nouveau this year. But if you have to choose between the two, go with the Duboeuf over the St.-Aubin because the Duboeuf has a little more fruit to grab onto.

Branching Out: Tired of the standards? For a little more adventure, try these:

2004 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Zind

2004 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Zind (PLCB No. 21229, $18.99). Consider this as an alternative to Riesling and Gewurztraminer. This white from Alsace is focused and expressive. It’s made with 70% Chardonnay and 30% Auxerrois, an Alsatian varietal that adds substance and nuance. Floral and citrus flavors decorate the palate. It has a rich mouthfeel but the finish is crisp and bright. Seductive honeysuckle notes linger for minutes.

Georges Duboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes (PLCB No. 5504, $15.99). Consider this wine instead of the Beaujolais Nouveau. Although Morgon is made with same grape used in Beaujolais Nouveau, the Gamay grape, it has a little more depth. Sweet cherries and mocha with mineral undertones.

2005 Simonnet-Febvre Pinot Noir Vin de Pays des Portes de la Méditerranée

2005 Simonnet-Febvre Pinot Noir Vin de Pays des Portes de la Méditerranée (PLCB No. 18853, $8.99). Burgundy and Old World-style Pinot Noir are stellar wines to pair with a roasted turkey because they deliver earth and fruit flavors that perfectly complement your typical Thanksgiving spread. However, the problem in PA is that (a) all of the Burgundy on the PLCB stores’ shelves is pretty pricey; and (b) most of the Pinot Noir is not only pricey, but it’s New World-style. To get a drinkable Pinot (New or Old World), you normally have to shell out at least $40. Then there’s the Simonnet-Febvre Pinot Noir, which clocks in at an almost laughably low $8.99. This isn’t an elegant Pinot Noir you’ll get misty about a la Sideways. But it does have the barebones framework of an Old World-style Pinot Noir. A shocking effort for the price.

2005 Lacrimarosa Campania Rosé Mastroberardino I.G.T.

2005 Lacrimarosa Campania Rosé Mastroberardino I.G.T. (PLCB No. 25333, $12.99). Made from the Aglianico grape, this Rosé displays delicate strawberry and raspberry fruit supported by an ashy minerality that's blended with a slight creaminess. Lime and citrus notes brighten the finish.

2003 Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva (PLCB No. 4560, $11.99). For those who are fans of Pulp Fiction, consider this the Winston Wolfe of wines: it solves problems. This red wine is not the most intuitive match for a Thanksgiving meal, I’ll admit. But it’s versatile enough to save the day. The fruit, tannins and acidity are well balanced, and it’s guaranteed to go with something on the table. A consistent crowd pleaser, and my current house wine.

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November 12, 2007

Pig-turesque

Cochon
It’s tempting to make certain assumptions about a restaurant named Cochon (French for pig): (1) the menu will contain pork; and (2) the food will compel you to eat to the point of gluttony. Both of these assumptions, it turns out, are true of the new Queen Village French bistro helmed by chef Gene Giuffi and his wife Amy. But when this duo was mulling over names for their BYOB, they settled on Cochon for an entirely different reason.

Cochon is the latest crusader in the city’s French restaurant revolution—a liberating development in light of Philadelphia’s time-worn allegiance to the Italian BYOB. The bistro occupies the space that formerly housed Café Sud. During renovations, Gene and Amy discovered charming fixtures almost too good to be true—a well-heeled mosaic tile floor and original pressed tin wall panels that have been sanded and painted powder blue. The warm, expanded dining room now comfortably seats 44 at humble wooden tables. The gleaming new open kitchen is nestled into the corner. A large chalkboard decorates the wall to display daily specials.

Though young, Cochon already has a clear identity, all thanks to the pig. To chef Giuffi (formerly of Davio’s, Nan, La Boheme and ¡Pasión!), the pig represents the essence of rustic, farmhouse food. And he named his bistro after the uncultured sow to remove the pretense often associated with French fare. It’s a proud, unapologetic reminder—this is peasant food. But don’t let the rural theme fool you. Cochon’s food may be simple, but it’s not without sophistication.

Escargot

Clean and tender escargot and Shitake mushrooms rest in a red wine sauce. Gently kissed with garlic Pernod butter, the deep, herbaceous sauce is ambrosial, making this one of the most memorable and satisfying appetizers on the menu.

Crispy Chicken Livers

Another must have is the crispy chicken livers appetizer—a Davio’s dish Giuffi updated. Tossed with balsamic, candied walnuts and raisins, the livers are soft, rich and pleasantly sweet.

Mussels

The delicate tomato-leek saffron broth in which the mussels bathe could use a touch of heat. Still, you won’t be able to resist dredging the bowl with a spent shell to rescue the last drop of broth.

Free-Range Duck Breast

Entrées, too, are smart without losing their pastoral appeal. Beautifully prepared duck breast comes with a white bean ragout that includes crisped-up bacon and confit, a creative play on refried beans. Giuffi skillfully prepares a Prime cut of Belevedere strip steak for the steak frites, and the fries conceal a faint hint of heat that warms the back of your throat.

Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder

Slow-cooked country staples receive the tender care they deserve. The pork shoulder marinates for almost 2 days and roasts for 8-10 hours. It’s a comforting prelude to winter, though the dish could use more of the roasted Brussels sprouts that are nesting in the hearty and flavorful lentils du Puy.

Braised, Free-Range Lamb Shank

But the braised, free-range lamb shank steals the show. The sweet, wild meat spills off the mammoth bone with the slightest brush from a fork. And the syrupy port reduction that hosts earthy rutabaga and fingerlings balances the lamb’s richness.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Bordeaux are ideal for Giuffi’s cuisine, though the selection of these wines at the nearby 5th street PLCB store is thin and/or expensive. In a pinch, the 2003 Chateau Greysac will do (PLCB No. 4453, $18.95), as will the 2003 Chateau Les Fief de Lagrange (PLCB No. 7991, $18.99). But those searching for a less expensive alternative may enjoy the 2005 Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza (PLCB No. 29021, $11.99), a Syrah/Bonarda blend (think: Merlot with a personality).

Dinner Roll

Cochon’s key strength, ironically, highlights a small weakness. Giuffi’s signature sauces are intensely addictive and beg to be soaked up with a deep, never-ending basket of sliced baguette. But the single, elegant roll you receive instead doesn’t last long (especially with the delicious butter dressed with sea salt) and even seems a little too fussy for Cochon’s humble personality.

But Cochon’s only real blemish—one that’s common in Center City eateries—is the relatively high noise level. The angular dining space and tin panels are likely more to blame than the open kitchen.

Creme Brulée

Most desserts are currently being sourced from outside vendors. But the creme brulée, made in-house, is a flawless dream that should not be missed. Its hard, caramelized shell harbors a cool, satisfying custard.

With its warm environs and rustic country cuisine, Cochon’s a bistro the everyday Frenchman would call home.

Cochon
801 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-923-7675
Prices: $8-$23; Cash Only

For more pics, check out my Cochon set on Flickr.

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